Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Reflections

The wind was relentlessly whipping across our faces as we descended down the knoll and stepped over the small creek that twisted in between the pine trees. Jamie and I were told that this was a forest, but it looked more like an American tree farm than an actual living, breathing habitat of foliage, animals, regeneration and decay. Everything was in lines and you could walk between the trees like a row of corn. There were no animals on the ground. It was desolate and brown; the winter winds had killed off any under growth, if any had ever existed at all.

It is sad riding a train across the Czech countryside and gazing out at the rolling hills. One notices that most have no trees and if they have trees, they are the tall, spindly pines that grow about 50,000 feet in a year; Czechs harvest and sell them for lumber without having to wait decades to turn a profit. This land is aged and people have settled here for thousands of years. Historically, Slavs were farmers and the continuous cycle of plowing, tilling, cutting and planting has really left an impression on the environment.

Many years ago, the Czech Republic was covered by deciduous forests, where trees like oaks, maples and birches would reign supreme. Their decomposed leaves leaving bedding full of vitamins and nutrients for future growth and renewal. In the fall, I could imagine that the hills would turn into a panorama of red, orange and yellow, as if a painter lightly tapped his brush against a canvas creating miniscule paint blotches. I'm sure that it was beautiful.

Today, it is green. When hiking, one can sometimes see amongst the rows of skinny trunks a behemoth with a twisted torso and gyrating arms that look like the snakes that make up medusa's hair: one goes left, the other corkscrews right, one is pointing up and one is contorted in utter confusion. When it rains, the pine trees never look wet; their bark seems to soak up the water. But, the bark of a deciduous tree turns black and slick; it looks like oil amongst the pines. It is eerie, almost scary. I can't help but admire the longevity of the deciduous tree. It is surrounded on all sides by uniformity and likeness, and here it stands, a link to the past, a dying relic and the only color in the fall.

So, on the train I feel a sense of loss as I gaze at the pine trees.The Czech country side is wonderful, but I think that it is stunning because of the hills, farms and small villages, not for the wildlife. However, this is Europe and this is the place where people have treaded for hundreds, thousands of years.

Christmas is here and I can't believe how fast the time is flying by. I know that I keep on repeating it, but really, it is shocking. We have been in Europe for almost six months!

In the past six months I have been pulled and prodded; I have seen extreme highs and apathetic lows; I have criticized, appreciated, misunderstood and received clarity. I guess that this is what is called life. I know that this experience living in a different culture, learning a new language and formulating relationships will teach me a lot about maturity, but I hope that it also teaches me about myself.

I still believe that everyone, at some point in their life, should live in a new culture and see the world through the eyes of people completely separated from their own worldview and history. It is so challenging, but it brings heaps of perspective; I can't help but feel that people are cheated if they don't take this step. I know that resources and time have a lot to do with the fact that many people do not travel, but a hidden arrogance might also be at play.

I am amazed at how many times I speak with Czechs and realize my own ignorance and also my own egotism as an American. I guess this might sound kind of funny, but the stereotypes about American personalities can be true, to an extent. When Czechs talk about their history or about their cars or about really anything 'Czech', I had this idea of, "oh, that is so cute." Maybe, "oh that is so cute," is not the best way to think about a nation of people. I mean, they might be a small nation of people, but not everything they do is so, little. The roads are smaller, the cars are smaller, the heating systems in the houses are not as large or as warm, their sports crowds are smaller, their stadiums are smaller, their television options are smaller, their cookies are smaller, the people are smaller....you get the picture? I do think to an extent I was letting my preconceived notions cloud my perceptions about the history, the culture and even the people.

Jamie and I can learn so much from the Czech Republic, we just have to let our eyes be opened. I think that both Jamie and I have to accept some of the cultural differences as our own: we have to be people who are both American and both Czech. If we are too focused on home or in comparison and contrasting, then we might miss the beauty of uniqueness. I can't focus on "this in relation to that." I have to focus on "this" (cultural entity) and appreciate it for what it is. I guess I would advise people to be leery about the tendency in all of us to question whether another culture can teach us anything more about ourselves; they can and they most often will, one just has to let go a little bit so the teaching can commence!

I feel very jumbled, there is so much to say, but I am really struggling with how to express it.

I've begun to realize the difference between traveling for a few months and living in a place for an extended period of time. I mentioned in an earlier post (maybe November) that everyone goes through a cycle when they travel: the first month is WOW; the third month is WOW/TIRED; the fifth month is, CRITICAL/SICK OF EVERTYHING. I often find myself in the "critical/sick of things" stage of my cultural journey. This is not to say that my time in the Czech Republic has been ruined by such a mindset. To the contrary, I am glad that I am having these bouts of overt criticism of the Czech people, as I think it keeps me honest and not too nostalgic about my host culture. For example, I don't like the fact that Czech people really struggle to take responsibility for tasks, or that they can be cold on the street and unwilling to engage in conversations with strangers. I also don't like the fact that people get right up on your butt in line, as if they want to take your spot, even though you have been standing there for 20 minutes!!!! I digress...

One night Jan and I were in the car together and I was explaining to him that I get more and more frustrated when Czechs speak about Americans and American culture. I feel that many of them just vent their frustrations about commercialized, exported culture and about Bush, which they then make the mistake of thinking that ALL Americans support. Jan told me, that he could tell that I had now entered into the criticism stage of cultural immersion and that it was officially my problem, not the people of the Czech Republic.He is right. Because I only understand certain aspects of Czech conversation, I make up the rest. What might seem like a very critical conversation about Americans might end up being a conversation about American film and the mass production of it.

So, I have begun to contort the discussion to fit into my own mentality, which is not so healthy to do. However, it does not mean that many of my complaints are wrong or misplaced. What it does mean, is that I have to wrestle with how to appropriately handle myself in a culture that is not mine, but that is not completely separate from who I am. The longer I live here, the more Czech I become; but at heart, I am still an American by blood, by memory and by habit. When someone insults the United States, I can't get offended and try to explain to them about the diversity of the country. They don't care. I can't change their ideas. I am not on a mission to change peoples' preconceived notions about the big, bully nation in North America.

I know that many of you might be thinking that this makes no sense, and it very well might make no sense to any of you, but just know that the more you stay in a place, the tougher it gets to place a finger on the people who live there. Maybe this could go a long way to international understanding. Think, only if rich whites would move into the inner city, then maybe we wouldn't label them as all lazy and derelict; or, if we middle class workers went and lived with the rich, then maybe we wouldn't believe them to be all greedy; and if we Christians went and lived in a nation of Muslims, then maybe we wouldn't believe them to be all blood-thirsty terrorists; or maybe if some people would travel to the United States, then they would see that not all Americans are fat, ignorant and rich. It is their choice however, not mine. It starts at an individual level.

So, I can rail against the Czech people all I want, but really, I am loving them. I love them for how they challenge me, who they are making me into and how they take easy answers and twist them like a pretzel. Through my Czech friends and students, I am able to see the world through a different perspective and it is this experience that laughs at ignorance and egotism. I need them in a way, because what would be exciting about life if all our senses were clouded with the mundane and the usual?

I urge everyone, to please step outside of your comfort zone, experience something new and judge it after. But, remember that you can not separate yourself from your life and you can't separate your life from your experience.

Christmas:

Czechs are not showy people, so in town, there are very few christmas lights or gaudy decorations of plastic Santa’s climbing chimneys, or gargantuan size snowflakes hanging over the road. It might seem like a bad thing to Jamie and me, as we are used to a very bright, sparkly Christmas season, but it has been quite refreshing. There are so many differences with the holiday season, that I would feel it best to just list them out:

* Czechs do not decorate the Christmas tree until Christmas Eve. Many families still put wax candles on the tree to make it "twinkle." Jamie and I will not do this, because I am sure we would burn our apartment building to the ground.

* For dinner, the Czechs eat carp and potato salad. For the past week, there have been men in town selling the fish out of a huge steel cylinder. They grab the fish with the net and then plop them down on a table that has rubber on it, so the fish don't slide around. Families then can chose which fish they want to eat for dinner. Once the choice is made, the family can either opt to kill the fish there or take it home and put it into the bath tub until death calls. Putting it into the bath tub is the best, because the kids can play with it and watch it swim around. The Dus family has their fishy in the tub right now and it is pretty big. Carp are ugly fish, but they have cute faces. I can't help but feel sad for the fish; they really are helpless out of water.

* Czechs open their gifts on Christmas Eve, not Christmas day.* Children write letters not to Santa, but to "baby Jesus." More on this at a later date....

*Czech women make sweets all week in preparation for the big meal. Usually the sweets consist of ginger bread, cookies with jam in the middle, coconut cookies and little vanilka rohlicky, or vanilla rolls.

* Czechs have a "mini" fast on Christmas Eve. Supposedly, they are able to see the 'golden pig' if they do not eat any food before dinner. I have no idea what this is about, but I will try to get more on it later.

* Many Czech families go to "midnight mass," even though they are not Christian.

* Czechs really enjoy "Christmas events" like nativity scenes, caroling, workshops, etc.

* That’s about it for now....

Sadly, it does not look like there will be any snow for Christmas, which is disappointing. The winter this year has been really mild; we have had only one real snowfall all year....

Monday, December 22, 2008

living nativity



Last night we had a live nativity scene and caroling on the steps of the church. It was a chilly night, but I think that everyone who came had an enjoyable time! It was nice to see that people from the community came out to see this event, but it was a little strange that they did not join in the singing, since they probably knew the songs. Regardless, it was a wonderful night of fellowship with the members of the church.

Vánoce strom! (Christmas tree!)

Yesterday Jeremy and I went with our friends Vera and Karel to find a Christmas tree. The own a piece of land where they grow trees and offered to take us to get our Christmas tree with them, which was very nice. We walked thought a the little trees and found one that was next to a much bigger one and would surely die within the year due to competion. I'm not sure Jeremy was quite as excited as me, but we have our first Christmas tree! Earlier in the month we decorated our giant catus in the hallway of our appartment building, which is strange for most Czechs. Who would decorate a cactus?! So as you can see, we both: a Christmas tree and Christmas Cactus :)

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Natalie in Policka!

I feel that since our move from PA to Policka Jeremy and I have been very blessed in the number of visitors we have had. Our first being our friend Dave, whom we went to college with and was studying a semester at Oxford. Kyle, whom we met in Amsterdam, and Abe, Kyle's, where the second. And last but not least, another friend from college, Natalie, who just finished a semester studying in Russia.



So on December 14th we picked Natalie up in Prague and brought her back to Policka. There has been so much happening lately, and it was so nice to have a visitor who understands living in a culture that is completely different. The 3 hour train ride to Policka was great, we talked about her time in Russia, our classes, how we help with the church, and bonded over the difficulties with learning a slavic language.


On Monday we took Natalie around Policka and then went by bus to Litomysl, a larger nearby town. I feel like this is a good time to explain the pictures I posted. The first is in Prague and the other two are in Litomysl. I wanted Natalie to see the castle, and there are some other fun things to take pictures by: a very large chain and a pool that has 5 naked scuptures around it (4 women and one man). The chair was already being used for a photo shoot, so we went to pose by the naked people. I think the pictures tell the rest of the story.

Anyway, after hanging out in Litomysl, we went to have dinner with our friend Magda and her two girls Klara and Bara. It was an enjoyable night, full of good conversation and laughter. The next morning Natalie was on her way back to Prague.
We understand that it is difficult for people to come see us, mainly because of the cost of the ticket, but please know that we are thankful and appreciate every e-mail, letter, card and package we have recieved. Thank you for all your warm thoughts and prayers. Hopefully you will be able to have a good picture of what is it like here through our blog.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

What's Eating Gilbert Grape?

wow, our faces are HUGE!




The second installment of 'Filmovy vecer'--film night--went on without a hitch. After the resounding success of my first movie night, I knew that I had to pick a film that was a quality match in all categories, from cinematography, to acting, to story line. I feel that I did an ample job in meeting my criteria, when I chose to show What's Eating Gilbert Grape?, starring Johnny Depp and Leonardo DiCaprio. The dialogue of this movie is very spare and I knew that it would be manageable for the Czech audience to understand just by listening. In complete contrast to the first, this film is a slow moving, beautifully written story about the meaning of love and human altruism. It takes place in Iowa and the characters are a canvas of mid-western personalities; it is humble, unassuming, kind and not showy. In a strange way, it is much like the Czech people themselves, but that is for another time.

I really had no idea what size of a crowd I would receive; I was hoping for 20, like the first time, but knew that it would be much less. I was really worried that no one would come at all. Consequently, I was pleasantly surprised when I saw 10 people sitting in their chairs waiting for the show to start: it was half as much as the first time, but a respectable number nonetheless. The movie began at 7:15 and ended at 9:10, which made me nervous for the last 20 minutes, as I had promised the crowd that we would be out of the room by 9. Every time I heard an exhalation of air or a rustle in the seat behind me, I took it as displeasure and frustration; it was not a fun feeling. When the movie finally ended, I turned on the lights and apologized immediately for the tardiness of my program. But, when I looked at the crowd, I noticed that three people were crying and none of them seemed to mind that it was ten minutes past their expected departure. I gave a very brief closing remark and then told them good night, and as they left, many described the film as "beautiful" and "touching." Needless to say, I was happy with their reaction: 2 movies; 2 positive reviews!

Many of the adults at the movie were not members of the church. I can't explain how important it is that they are coming to this building and staying late into the night. This is our mission here: to show the community that Christians and the Church are places of art, of music, of relevant conversation, of care and of camaraderie.

This week I am having mini Christmas parties with the adult classes. I asked them to bring in some sweets that they bake during the holiday season, and many of them did. I ate so many sweet cookies that I did feel sick afterwards; but, it was worth it. I baked some peanut butter cookies and gave them to the class; they were very new for the Czech adults. Some didn't like the taste all that much, but the salty/sweet combination was a big hit with others. I was pleased.

If you are struggling to figure out what to get Jamie and I for Christmas, then let me help you: A monetary donation to this ministry would be great for us! But, if you want to give something more personal, a good letter of encouragement will go a long way! Check out the addresses and information on how to send donations and letters on the right side of this blog.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Updates

It has been about two weeks since Jamie and I have really posted some updates; A lot has happened and there has been much on our minds.

On December 5th the Czechs celebrate a holiday known as St. Nicholas Day. Now, I know that many Americans have "heard" of the celebration before, but very few of us actually celebrate it. The Czechs have a very unique, and at times, very frightening way of immortalizing the good, ole' Mr. Nicholas.
To begin, people in groups of three dress up as either St. Nicholas, an angel or a devil. As you could imagine, a majority of kids and adults WANT to be the devil (cert). Many times the costumes themselves can be quite elaborate with the devil taking the prize for the most creative.

With the Angels, you normally have the stock wings, white gowns and gold, glittery halos. Maybe a face painted white is a good touch, but all in all, the angel looks pretty typical. Oh, the angles are normally the women.

St. Nicholas has the outfit of an old catholic bishop: they have the pointed hat, the robes and numerous crosses affixed to their outfit. Additionally, a good beard is always necessary__preferably white. St. Nicholas has a few "accessories" that make his costume special: he carries a staff, which signifies importance and prestige and in the other hand he totes a gargantuan book. Now, the book itself supposedly has notes on all the children, whether they have been good or bad. If a child is bad, St. Nicholas will leave either coal or potatoes; sometimes, if the little one is a real terror, they get both. And, if a child is well-behaved Nicholas will bestow upon them sweets, fruits and nuts. But, more on that part a little bit later.

Now comes the devil. A good devil always has a chain, bell and a sack, which they constantly shake and make a racket with. The bell signifies the ominous, lurking presence of evil and the chain, well I don't know about the chain, maybe it is the physical manifestation of the bondage that the devil will put a bad child in?! The Sack is used to scoop up the naughty kids and bind them up, so they can be taken to hell. Yeah, a little bit scary for children, huh? Sure enough, in my adult classes, I asked them to give me some memories they have of this holiday and all of their recollections were similar: terror, intimidating devils, snow. It also doesn't help the situation, when the devils themselves are very showy in their costuming: animal furs, very black faces, horns, masks, burly voices, shaking bells, weird wagons with little ponies (seriously), and piercing eyes.

Parents of the children usually ask their friends to dress up and come to their house to give their children a good fright. Often times the parents tell St. Nicholas, beforehand, the bad things and good things that their kids have done, which again, makes this holiday seem all the more real, as St. Nicholas can recite TRUE events and actions that the child has made throughout the year. The devil is there too, shaking his bell, rattling his chain and threatening to take the kid to a fiery death. And, the loving Angel is encouraging the boy and yelling at the devil. It all makes for an interesting scene. You can hear the devils going around town, as the bells are clanged and the chains are shaken throughout early evening. The children all seem to have a look of alertness and terror on their faces.

Jamie and I were really excited to see this holiday, but sadly, we only saw the very beginning and the tail end. We saw some devils, but mainly our experience was the sound of the devils' bells. It seemed that many people came out to see those who dressed up, but did not actually dress up themselves. I guess that, in my mind, I had Halloween pictured, where everyone is out and in a costume, but here, it was not the case. It was a little bit disappointing, but I know that next year I will stay outside for the whole holiday. Maybe I will even dress up!?


The band had their second pokec of the year and it was by far their finest act. In fact, Jan gave them great encouragement when he told them that it was the best one he has ever seen! I was very happy for the band; they have been working hard and they needed a great showing. They sounded great and Honza and Madla played a couple of songs on their own, which were the highlights of the show. Our guest was Stepan Plecharchik, who works at the local Charity organisation that specializes in caring for and educating people with mental and physical handicaps. He gave and excellent talk and answered many questions. The only downside to the night, was that our crowd was really small. We have been advertising all over town and in the schools and we still only managed to attract 13 people and most of them were family. Jamie and I need to figure out how to get people into this building and to make our ideas more creative; it is frustrating.

The Christmas season is approaching and we have a lot going on in the church. In fact, Jamie and I will be acting in the Christmas play, where we have to sing and speak in Czech in front of the whole congregation. Yeah, it might be a little bit challenging. We will also sing carols on the steps of the church and have a "live" nativity scene. It should be a lot of fun.

These past few weeks have been quite difficult for both Jamie and I. Personally, I need some time away from Policka and the church. I need to energize. We have been thinking about the winter and spring and we have many great/exciting ideas; however, we just need to figure out how to get the word out in the community. In the end, I don't want our events and our program to be relegated to just the church members; we need to get it out and invite people of all backgrounds. I think these two weeks off will be a great time for relaxation and self-evaluation.

In case you are wondering, here are some ideas that we have been tossing around:

Mardi Gras Party
Presentation on American culture (race)
"pollywood" party
80's fitness/dance party
5k Fun run in Policka
Dodge ball tournament
1st Policka Disc golf classic
Movie nights
Spring cleaning (community cleaning event)

-so we have ideas and we both think that they are creative. Now, we just need guidance and prayer to get them out beyond the church walls and have people come. If you would love to help us prepare for these events, please comment on this post and leave your email. We will need supplies.

Jamie and I are thinking about our vacation during Christmas and we have three choices: a cottage in the mountains, Prague or Vienna. I think that we would like to do all three, but we will have to decide soon. Just thought you might like to know....

Friday, December 5, 2008