Went to Krakow and found out that WWII was pretty crappy__dude.

Jamie and I took a much-anticipated trip to Poland this past weekend. It was a great time for us to unwind after the hectic planning that comes with the Halloween Party. I felt quite pleased as our train departed form Policka, because I knew that we had left on a good note: the Halloween Party was a complete sucess and our plans for the 'Fall Festival', which is this upcoming Sunday, were coming along nicely.

Krakow (Cracow, Cracov, Krakowa--I've seen it spelled so many ways) was surprisingly beautiful. If there is any country in Central Europe that I know the least about, Poland is it. Pretty much all I knew/know about Poland has been passed down to me either through the Polish-Catholic traditions of Ambridge (D-Woz REPRESENT with the pierogis), the movie 'The Pianist', the Holocaust, or the racially-charged 'Polak' jokes that never paint the Polish 'nation' in a good light. Needless to say, when I stepped off the train onto a boulevard that was quite wide, lined with relatively-new lamp posts, paved with beautiful cobblestones and surrounded by shops, my preconcieved notions instantly took a shot. I don't really know what I expected: maybe I thought many of the plaster facades would be crumbling and that there would be graffiti-covered bridges dotting the city? Well, whatever my mind had pre-imagined was quite far from the truth.



The city is located on the River 'Wiev' as it winds its way north to the Baltic Sea. In the southern part of Poland one will find beautiful vistas of sweeping mountains (much like the Appalachians) and rolling hills. Houses are dotted throughout, with the main concentration of towns lying within wide-open valleys. The Mountains rise on a gradual incline, so the feeling is not one of claustrophobia--think The Alleghenies, not West Virginia. As one travels about 50 kilometers north from the border with the Czech Republic, the country flattens out into plains; this is what most of Poland is comprised of. I guess to the 'untrained' eye, the landscape could look a little bit 'boring', yet its subtleness is what I loved about it. Gazing out the window of the train I looked directly into the woods; there were leaves of yellow and orange, and because the land itself was on such an even plane, it seemed as if the forest carried on forever. It was just a maze of earthy, fall colors with narrow roads leading to villages and churches tucked away, hidden. Every now and then, we would break out into the open and I would see farm fields radiating out from a central point--usually a town or a village. The remnants of the communist past are everywhere, as the flatness of the landscapes only exacerbates the height of the hideous, monolithic, communist 'block houses' reaching upwards towards the heavens; towering above even the church steeples.

Those of you with a very preliminary knowledge of the history of WWII would still be aware of place called Auschwitz (Oswiecem in Polish). Auschwitz was/is the most notorious of the Nazi concentration camps (along with its sister camp, Birkenau). The number of people murdered - in the most 'modern'/'efficient' of ways - is literally unknown. Growing up I heard about how meticulous the Nazis were in documenting their atrocities, which is true, when they were killing 'enemies' who were deemed 'worthwhile' to document; Jews did not fit this bill. Instead, the vast majority of those gassed, shot, starved, burned or hung were done so IMMEDIATELY upon exiting the train. They dropped their suitcases, stripped off their clothes and ran towards their death, naked. They had no papers, no registration and no numbers tattooed into their skin (Auschwitz was the only camp to tattoo prison numbers. They did so because people were dying so quickly that prison officials couldn't keep track of how many people had passed through; however, the practice lasted only the first 2 years of the camp. After that, it was a free-for-all of killing without conscience).


Located only 50 kilometers from the main city of Krakow, Auschwitz was the destination of many Polish political prisoners and Jews. Before the war, Krakow had a thriving Jewish population of around 60,000; today, that numbers stands at exactly 120, and they're all old. If you walk around the Jewish sector today, there is nothing living; the whole quarter is on gigantic museum: most of the former families were killed, or have since emigrated to Israel or the United States.

Krakow was also the location of the most notorious Jewish 'Ghetto' and the site of Oscar Schindler's factor, which itself has a dark secret to tell. In the movie that was directed by Steven Spielberg, we come to admire Oscar Schindler as a light within a dark forest, a man who worked within the system to subvert it. However, in real life, things were a little more complicated: to be 'written' onto one of Schindler's lists, Jewish families had to pay a sum of 500$, which at the time was about 5 years pay--a veritable fortune. Additionally, if that didn't ruin your rosy picture enough, it was found that many of the Jews on the list were ones who had family members working for the Nazis as Gestapo informants. I didn't take this 'tid bit' as a great shock, as I've come to expect that all historical 'facts' have an underbelly to them, which itself usually challenges the 'factual title'. But we often ignore it; choosing to let history conform to our notions and memory; therefore, dulling and diluting it.

I guess one really can't go to Poland without hearing SOMETHING sad. The country itself, even before WWII and the Communist era, has always dealt with war and human atrocities. From Kings and Queens, to Napoleon, to Hitler, to Stalin, it has forever been Europe's battle ground. I can't think of a more fitting illustration than this: Poland is the only European nation that lacks its original Crown Jewels and Throne. Catherine the Great of Russia melted them all down to make money and, fittingly enough, her toilet bowl.