Saturday, August 31, 2013

Day 61

Erie,PA (0 miles - rest day - 57 miles by car)

Today was the first day on our trip where I did not wake up in the middle of the night hungry! I'm not gonna lie, it was a great feeling. During our rest days our goal has been to catch up on calories, and I think I have achived this goal. We'll see how I feel tomorrow morning. I can't speak for Jeremy or Sara.

Around lunch time we drove down to Presque Isle State Park. There is a 50's style ice cream and sandwich place called Sara's just as you enter the park. They have killer peanutbutter milkshakes, so we has to stop. It wasn't the best day to go to the beach, but Presque Isle was still full of people, and we still walked long the shore skipping rocks, looked for beach glass and cool drift wood, and dripped our feet in Lake Erie.

Day 60

Pittsburgh,PA / Erie,PA (0 miles - rest day - 161 miles by car)

Today we took Sara to Pittsburgh. We showed her the bridges, ate some pierogies, picked up a YINZ sticker for her bike and walked along the river to The Point.

After dinner with my parents, we drove downtown to Erie to visit with our friends Annie and Jude. They took us to their garden, fed us a second dinner, and welcomed us into their home for an evening of catching up, future planning and laughter. And of course, we listened to the Pirate game. Let's go Bucs!

Friday, August 30, 2013

Day 59

Ambridge,PA (0 miles - rest day - 122 miles by car)
Today we drove down to see Jeremy's family and hang out with our Beaver County friends. Naturally we took Sara down with us and gave her a good taste of Western PA.

Day 58

McKean,PA (0 miles - rest day)

Today we we woke up to rain, but we were nice and dry in my parent's house, so no worries! No wet tent. No mosquitos. No repacking our bags. Still woke up hungry.

I'm pretty sure our only real goal of the day was to watch a movie, but our relaxation time got in the way. So we sat around, ate, played with my brother's dog, drove downtown to visit were Jeremy used to work, ate some more, and hungout with my family. No movie, but it was still a great day! And our legs and wrists thanked us for the break.

Thursday, August 29, 2013

Day 57

Cleveland Heights,OH - Fairview,PA (96 miles)

This morning we woke up refreshed and ready to go. During breakfast we decided that we were going to try to make it to my grandma's house in Fairview rather than camping half way. We were just about to head out when it started to pour. Like for real pour. Thunder, lightening, the works. So we weren't going anywhere soon.

After about an hour the brunt of the storm had passed, so it was time to go. Clad in blue ponchos, we started out trek to Fairview. We were leaving later than we had anticipated, but we were hopeful we would still make it. Today was going to be epic.

We rode in the rain for a solid 45 minutes before it let up, which can be a challenge in a city, especially in an unformilular one. Is there a giant pothole under the puddle on the road? Will the drivers give us extra space? Will our bikes hydoplane when we try to stop? What road are we looking for? Was this really a good idea. These questions, and more, inevitably cross our minds. But the rain stopped and our came the humidity.

At 5:00pm we pulled into Astibula for some dinner. We had to make a decision, were we going to camp here, or push on to Fairview? Our GPS said we were 34 miles away, so three hours. This would be cutting it close since it gets dark around 8:30pm. The consenses was to ride on. The weather called for thunderstorms throughout the night and on Wednesday, and none of us wanted to pack up our things in the rain the next morning. So I called my mom, grandma and brother to let them know we were on our way. There was no turning back - Fairview or bust.

Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Day 56

Avery,OH - Cleveland Heights,OH (63 miles)
So...I have been slacking on the blog posts.... I have every intention of going back later and adding some stories, but honestly, I have no idea when that will be.  But I hope you are enjoying the pictures!
Today we road through Cleveland. There haven't been too many big cities on this trip, so Cleveland was a welcomed change from small towns, corn and soybeans.
This morning we had no idea where we would be staying. A few days ago we started contacting warmshowers hosts since there are no places to camp. One guy, Bryan, did get back to us, but he was out of town and could no host, and offered to, "shake the tree" and found us a place to stay. We all assumed that he knew the people he see us up with, but it turns out he went on warmshowers.org and started calling people on our behaf! That's incredible, he doesn't know us at all, yet he was willing to call strangers for us so that we would have a place to stay.

Monday, August 26, 2013

Day 55

Bowling Green,OH - Avery,OH (69 miles)

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Day 54

near Broughton,OH - Bowling Green,OH (66 miles)

Friday, August 23, 2013

Day 53

Huntertown,IN - near Broughton,OH (58 miles)

This morning Dan and Marsha did their very best to try to get us to stay a little longer in Huntertown: breakfast at the local dinner, a field trip to the new town park and woodworker's club, and an interview with the local newspaper.

I know I was tempted to stay another night, but all I could think about was how close we were getting to Erie,PA and my family. Plus, my grandma will be having surgery in the next week and I want to see her beforehand. So we pedalled on. Out of Indiana and into Ohio!

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Day 52

Scott,IN - Huntertown,IN (65 miles)
Today was an adventure. We road through Amish country, hid out in a library while a thunderstorm rolled through and at the end of the day, found ourselves in front of a campground that had been closed for years.
We arrived in Huntertown at 6:45pm, and after stopping for a snack we went to look for the Ponytown USA campground. What we found was an overgrown field and a for sale sign. Crap. We quickly looked for other campgrounds in the area. The closest was 9 miles south in Ft. Wayne. It was now 7:10pm and it would be dark before we go there. Crap. With no other options we started to ride back into town. The plan was to look for people in their front yards, explain our situation and ask if we could put up our tents. The first attempt was a straight no. The second went a little better.
The second person we asked  was named Herb. He too did not want us camping in his front yard, but he gave us the phone number of his friend Dan who is in charge of the new town park, so maybe we could stay there.  With my fingers crossed I called Dan, explained how I got his number and our situation. It was now 7:40pm. Dan explained that the park was only in the first stages and there were no bathroom facilities. My heart sank a bit. Then he told me to hang on. The phone went silent, and a few moments later I heard him say to someone "we so do it, it'll be an adventure." Back on the phone he told me what we could camp in his yard and gave me directions. I thanked him whole heartedly and headed down the road.
At this point our evening completely turned around. Dan and his wife Marshal are amazing! They invited us into their house, ordered pizza, cut up fresh garden veggies, AND turns out they have a place in Shelbyville,TN - 10 minutes from Jeremy's parent's house! Needless to say we had a wonderful evening. And I'll say it once again, the people we meet is really what has made this trip great!

Rain Break: Albion, Indiana

We've finally entered into Indiana. Travelling from the Upper Peninsula down to Kalamazoo was quite a ride--one that was MUCH longer than anticipated. It's a funny thing, really, for when we don't ride East, I get impatient. The 536 miles we rode South challenged my focus and drive. Knowing that we still had 1,500 miles to go until Maine kept playing over and over in my head, reminding me that my pedaling over the stubborn Michigan hills was all in vain. Or, if not in vain, at least NOT in the right direction. Thankfully, we're heading east...again.

A trip across the country endears one to many things. There are the people, of course, who offer up their stories and hospitality. There is the scenery: Rocky mountain streams that cascade down granite embankments; high plains grasses that sway in the wind, looking like gentle ocean waves. There is the wildlife: The birds, the mountain goats, big horn sheep, and sand hill cranes. All of these elements coalesce to create an environment that is exhilarating while tranquil, challenging while comforting. Yet, out of all elements, one stands alone: the bike. After 3,o00 miles, I'm still in awe of its rugged simplicity and utility. While on the trail, many bystanders ask if I've had any problems with my ride. I often tell them, much to their consternation, that I have had hardly any and that in fact, I've only had ONE flat tire. I've never had to change a battery, add oil, fill up on gas, or cool an engine. Nothing. I simply get up, load the tent on the back, repack some panniers, check my chain, and hit the road. Every 300 miles or so, I clean and lube the drive train so it doesn't gunk-up or creak, and then I'm good to ride for another 300 more. The bicycle itself has to be one of the most perfect ergonomic contraptions, as it literally becomes a part of my body when I clip my shoes into the pedals. When I sway to the left or the right, the bike comes along with me. When I lunge up a hill, with each muscle fibre at full-tilt, I can hear the strain in the grind of my cassette. The pedals transfer the energy of my legs into a highly-efficient rotating motion that can, with minimal pressure on joints, enable the body to travel at speeds of up to 25, even 35 miles per hour. It can't be beat. There are few feelings more addicting than making a sharp turn while travelling at 18 miles per hour. When it happens, I lean the bike over, descend into the bend of the curve, and feel weightless as the momentum of the rapidly rotating wheels whip me forward into the straights. It feels as if I'm in flight.

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Day 51

near Irving,MI - Scott,IN (79 miles)

Today our goal was to get out of Michigan. This was only Sara's second day in the state, however Jeremy and I have been here for 10 days (around 450 miles). Michigan has been great. However, we have not made much progress going east, as about 250 miles were going south.

Just before the Indiana border there is a town called Centreville. We stopped there for some electrolites and a snack before going the last 20 miles to the campground. It was here we met an older guy who introduced himself as "Dirty Bob." He came up to us, asked about our ride and then invited us to his house to sign the inside of his bus. The whole time he is snorting and stumbling a bit. After he leaves, we look at one another, smile and shrug, then get on our bikes to go see this bus.

When we get to his house we see him come over to us waving with a big smile on his face, "I didn't think you were going to come! Come on, come sign my bus!" He leads us on to the white school bus next to his house. The inside had been turned into something like an RV. There were two beds, two tables with seats, a storage locker, and a bathroom. The rest was mostly open and every inch of ceiling was covered with writing.  He showed us the sharpie markers and we went to town. While we left our markers Bob introduced himself to us a few more times-- it is sad, his short term memory is more or less gone. He told us all about how him and his friend go to the raceway with the bus each year.  There was a younger guy, Dustin, whose grandfather lives close by, so he helps Bob around the house, so he took our picture on the bus with Bob. We said our goodbyes and Bob thanked us again for coming over and being his friend.

We didn't really know what to expect with the bus, but we all agreed it was the best part of our day. You never know who you'll meet biking across the country!

Day 50

Grand Rapids,MI - south of Irving,MI (38 miles)

We did another short day today. Maybe our legs will feel like they rested even though we still got some miles in.

It is nice to be back with Sara. Don't get me wrong, it was fun with just the two of us, but I know we both enjoy the conversations we have with Sara. Plus she is taller than both of us so she can pick wild apples off of trees!

Tomorrow the plan is to get to Indiana, barring our legs feel up to an 80 mile ride.

Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Day 49

Morley,MI - Grand Rapids,MI (45 miles)
Today we did a short day into Grand Rapids. We were able to take the trail all the way into the city, and in the last 15 miles I was amazed at how many people were out using it, considering it was Monday (I counted 84 people on bikes and there where just as many people walking).
Grand Rapids is a neat place. The Grand River runs right through the city, there are parks all along it. Plus, once we were down town we were able to take care of everything we wanted to do within a few blocks (laundry, post office, bike shop, Thai food, library).
On Thursday evening we had met Theresa and Rick in Petoskey and camped with them. They live in Grand Rapids and had offered to house us if we road through. It is hard to tell sometimes if people are serious when they say you can stay with them, but we took a chance and called them, and they said of course! AND they were willing to let Sara stay too. Yes, that's right, Sara caught up with us! So we spent another wonderful evening with them.
Tomorrow we will get back on the ACA route and continue on our way.

Sunday, August 18, 2013

Day 48

Cadillac,MI - Morley,MI (60 miles)

Today we got a break from hills and cars. The trail was great for the most part, except for the last 10 miles where the gravel had been turned into mashed potatoes by horse hooves. Mind you horses are not allowed on the trail. Boo. Oh yeah, and Jeremy fell.

Day 47

Macelona,MI - Cadillac,MI (70 miles)

Today was hard. This morning we had to decide if we were going to go back to following the ACA (adventure cycling association) or go down the White Pine trail (rails to trails). The trail would take us on flat terrain for 90 miles, straight south. The only thing is that the trail is only half paved. So we called a few bike shops in the area to ask their opinion on if it would be suitable for loaded touring bikes. The general consensus was yes, so off we went to Cadillac.

Our route was slightly more direct than than yesterday, but the hills kicked our butts. We rolled into Cadillac and made a b-line to the nearest pizza place. It was there that we were told about the campground, but we were warned that it was quickly filling up.

After scarfing down our pizza we kicked it into high gear in hopes of reaching the campground before sunset and before it filled up. Just before we reached it we were flagged down by a guy on the side of the road.
"Where you guys heading? I did a cross country tour in '93."
"We are going to Maine, we started in Washington."
"Wow! I did the opposite, Maine to Washington. Are you heading to the campground tonight?"
"Yeah, hopefully we can find a spot, we were told it is filling up fast."
"Yeah, it's pretty full. Hey, if you can't get a spot you can put your tent on my front lawn, I'm just down the road."
"Sounds great, thank you so much!"
"Actually, why don't you just camp in my yard?" Sounded good to us, so we followed Dave to his house.

Little did we know, but Cadillac was about to get awesome! Dave invited us into his home, fed us, let us shower and sleep in real beds, AND showed us pictures and told us all about his trip across the country! It was amazing. The pictures and stories were priceless, especially the ones from Glacier National Park. In the middle of July Going-to-the-sun road was void of cars and a parking lot at Logan pass only had a handful of cars in it. What a huge difference from what we experienced at Glacier! However most of his stories were much like our own: The generous people who welcomed him and his friends into their homes, the unrelenting mosquitos, the beautiful landscapes, and the massive amounts of food consumed. And this made me smile, because it was something the three of us shared, even though our trips were 20 years apart.

Day 46

Petoskey,MI - Mancelona,MI (64 miles)

In a car, the drive from Petoskey to Mancelona is 40 miles and takes a little less than an hour. By bike it is 64 miles and takes five and a half hours. Welcome to Michigan! There doesn't seem to be a direct route to any of the places we are going.

It was a bit surreal being back in Mancelona at Au Sable. It has been 6 years since I was an  environmental ed. intern there, but upon arriving it felt like it was just yesterday! 

I had called Paul, one of the guys I worked with when I was an intern in 2007, and he told me there was going to be an alumni reunion this weekend. So once we arrived we were met by a few familar faces and got to meet a bunch of great people.
Au Sable has to parts of it: the college classes and the elementary school classes (ELC). I was only involved with the ELC, so it was really cool to talk to people who had done the field classes and research. Au Sable is definitely a place that a lot of people love.

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Day 45

Naubinway,MI - Petoskey,MI (74 miles)

What a beautiful ride! The Upper Peninsula is stunning. The water of Lake Michigan was the most vibrant shade of aqua and it finally decided to warn up.

We got a ride across the Mackenaw Bridge from the bridge authority, which ended up being rather cool. We talked with the guy who drove us across about all the things he does on a regular basis: transport cyclists, drive scared drivers across, help with flat tires and other emergency situations, etc.

Once we got to the main land we weaved along the shore a bit then headed more inland to Petoskey. Man did it get hilly! All the different glacier formations are cool, yay science, but it makes biking difficult.

Petoskey is a beautiful town. The road in is lined with one hundred year old houses, perfectly preserved. And there is a bike trail that runs along Lake Michigan.

At the city campground we met Theresa and Rick. There was some confusion as to weither or not there were still sites available. So they let us put our tent on their site. What incredible people! Plus they enjoy the same outdoor activities we do (hiking, biking,kayaking,etc) so we swapped stories and spent the evening by the fire with them and their friends. I keep saying it, but meeting people along the way has really made this trip.

Day 44

Manistique,MI - Naubinway,MI (58 miles)

It is pretty unbelievable that we went 58 miles today considering we didn't start riding until 3 pm. The miles can really fly when the terrain flattens out. And we were able to find a bar, a mile from our camp site, to watch the Pirate's game!

It was sad to see our friends leave. The last few days didn't really seem like we were on a cross- country tour. We were simply camping with friends. But the reality is we still have about 2000 more miles and we need to keep on pedaling. Not that it's a bad thing!

Friday, August 16, 2013

A quick note on pain.

I normally don't post on ride days. The reason has nothing to do with exhaustion. It has EVERYTHING to do with our smart phone. Jamie has done an unbelievable job of posting each and every night, typing away on a miniscule keyboard that more often than not leaves much to be desired. I've attempted to write on our smart phone's touch screen but can't do it. I simply don't have the patience (or dexterity?) to focus long enough. Consequently, each and every post that Jamie makes is rather tedious and time-consuming. And for that reason, I hope that you're all enjoying them as much as I am!!

We have finally crossed into the Eastern Time Zone. It's completely unbelievable that we've made it this far. Often, before we fall asleep, Jamie and I repeat to ourselves how far we have come. However, there have been challenges: heat, wind, mosquitoes, and the aches of riding. Unfortunately, I've begun to experience some achilles tendon pain. It seems as though 2,700 miles is finally beginning to take a toll on my body.  Jamie and I have been running at a pretty good clip through Wisconsin (and the Upper Peninsula), and I have begun to show signs of wearing down. This is a rather different tune than the one I sang last time I posted, but it is indeed a reality of life on the road.

For those of you unaccustomed to putting your body through the physical rigors of pedaling an 80 pound contraption across the country, I want to assure you that discomfort is normal. Jamie and I have both gone through moments where it seemed as if our bodies were"letting us down." For me, pain and stress most often reside in my legs. I began this trip with trepidation due to lingering knee pain, yet as the trip wore on, my knees began to feel better than when we had left--I attribute this to a general strengthening of the muscles. Nevertheless, not all is perfect.

I read once that in an hour ride, a cyclist will make about 5,000 revolutions of the leg/foot. Now, if we were to do basic math and multiply 5,000 by 6 hours (our average daily length), it equals to 30,000 revolutions a day. Biking is a very repetitive sport, so one can imagine the strain that the ligaments and muscles are under, especially when the trip lasts longer than two months. Consequently, knees can start popping, tendons begin creaking, and muscle tissue gets ripped. There have been times where I couldn't fully extend my knee due to the searing pain in my quad, just as there have been instances where I creak and crack as if I'm an 80 year old. Thankfully, rest, a good stretch, and a spry/young body make for quick recoveries. For Jamie, her pain is located in her hands and wrist. One of the less-common injuries associated with cycling is what is called "handlebar-palsy," which seems to occur from literally putting your hands on handlebars for hours on end. The nerves in the hand are stressed, begin to twitch, and then cause one to lose feeling, grip, and control in the ring and pinky fingers. It was rather scary for us when it began to occur, but since then, Jamie has gotten some new bar tape (thanks, Jesse!) and entered into a routine of "wrist yoga" which helps. The point of writing this, is not to scare anyone, but rather to inform you of the physical challenges that are inherent in undertaking such an excursion. Luckily the natural beauty and human generosity make all the "suffering" worth it. 


There is much more to write, but the time is now mid-night and I must get some sleep. I'll post a more thorough update soon!

The Delphines: Careless

released 15 August 2013. Jami Eaton - vocals. Harrison Colby - guitar, vocals. Lucas Riddle - bass. Jeremy Ault - drums. Listen to it on Bandcamp!

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

Day 43

Escanaba,MI - Manistique,MI (48 miles - unloaded)

Today was awesome! We stayed up late last night chit-chatting, slept in this morning, ate a hearty breakfast, and prepared  for our ride - unloaded.

Jesse road along with us while Samantha and Matthew drove the "support car". Not only did they have all our gear, but they did our laundry, gave us snacks and had food ready at the camp site. I now understand why people do supported rides!  Although, it did feel a bit odd and unstable riding without all our gear.

The ride to Manistique was beautiful. We saw three sandhill cranes right next to the road and road by wetlands, mixed forrest, meadows and lake front beaches. Along we way we stopped shared snacks with Jesse and caught up on life.  It was rather chilly today, which is surprising since it is the second week of August. And the wind would have been trecherous had we been fully loaded.

Riding into camp was the best part of our ride. We were all back together and got to hangout the rest of the evening.  Meeting people along the way has been wonderful and we have had a good time, but nothing beats being able to talk with and share a meal with friends by a fire.

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

Day 42

Crystal Falls,MI - Escanaba,MI (76 miles)

Today we had a slow start. We slept in until 7:30 (that's an hour and a half after sunrise folks, so that's an accomplishment). Then we putzed around, packed up our things, and put together a makeshift breakfast with all our "leftovers" (handful of sunflower seeds, some crackers, a bun with peanutbutter, a dry ramen noodles pack, and a cup of honey nut cheerios). Food has become harder and harder to find. This morning we realized that the last time we had seen a legit grocery was in Cumberland,WI - that's 330 miles ago! We have had nothing but gas stations since then.

Once we got on the road the miles seemed to fly by. Maybe it was the wind at our backs and the smooth asphalt. More likely it was the anticipation of seeing friends!

Jesse, Matthew, and Samantha, three of our good friends from Milwaukee decided to meet us in Escanaba! They lovingly involved us in their vacation plans. Upon arriving at the camp site we were met with hugs and bowls of freshly made food. The next day or two are going to be awesome!!!

Monday, August 12, 2013

Day 41

Star Lake,WI - Crystal Falls,MI (71 miles)

Today we made it to Michigan and brought our total mileage to 2404 miles!

We have been going between 70-80 miles everyday since leaving Minneapolis, which is beginning to wear on us. Once we get to Escabana we will go back to riding 60-65 miles a day with a few long days here and there - it is a good pace!

Day 40

Glidden,WI - Star Lake,WI (78 miles)

Northern Wisconsin is full of lakes, so because of this there are small seasonal towns everywhere. Seasonal meaning that during the summer the population might be a few hundred (or more) and during the rest of the year there might be less than 50 people who stick around to see the snow.

Star Lake is one of those towns. There are small resorts and cabins for rent, and all the camgrounds are stuffed with people from Minnesota, Illinois, and southern Wisconsin. Motorhomes, ATVs, golfcarts and boats are everywhere. Everyone "living the dream" as one guy put it. The surprising thing is the lack of tent campers. It is as though the no longer exist.

Star Lake is home to Debbie. She owns a resort and the only store for miles. I met her, and her eleven year old grandson Bryan, on our quest to find dinner. After chatting for bit she invited is to go to kareoke with them, and gave me her phone number if we wanted a ride.

Back at our camp site, Jeremy was making friends with our neighbors, Carey and Mike. Mike had been coming to Star Lake since he was a kid. They offered us their grill, so Jeremy had me pick up some hamburgers, and told us to help ourselves to drinks in the cooler!!

Kareoke (how ever the crap you spell it...) was a great time! Debbie and Bryan sure can sing! They even got Jeremy is help out on a song - Under the Boardwalk.

Off to Michigan tomorrow!

Friday, August 9, 2013

Day 39

Edgewater,WI - Glidden,WI (78 miles)

Today was animal central! Here ,is what we saw:
(1) osprey flying with a fish
(4) loons - 2 were babies
(11) sandhill cranes
(1) female turkey
(1) snake - which we saved from being run over
(3) blue herons
(1) fawn
(2) piles of bear poop - way better than seeing a bear, but it was evidence of them, so it counts.

Other than TONS of wildlife, today consisted of rolling hills, a headwind that was mostly blocked by the trees, and clouds. We thought we would surely get rained on, but much to our delight we did not.

Upon getting to Glidden and setting up camp we met Wayne, Paul and Wildman. Wayne is a retired educator and school administrator who now runs guided bear hunting excursions as a hobby. He told us all about it, which was fascinating. Him and his wife will bait bears on their 40 acre piece of land and host one or two hunters a year. What was mostp interesting was that they monitor both the deer and bear population in their land.

Paul and Wildman we met a little later when they came to the city park to drive their remote control cars. They each have a high-end car that we can get going between 80-100mph depending on the motor they have installed. Wildman showed me a video of his car pulling one of Paul's children in a wagon! These things are intense!

Tomorrow we are off to Star Lake!

Day 38

Amery,WI - Edgewater,WI (69 miles)

Today we were on the road by 8am. There was no way we were going to get into our destination after 6pm again! Last night was too close, plus getting in late doesn't give us much time to relax.

Anyway, the ride to Edgewater was beautiful. It started out with farmland, but gradually turned into forest and small lake-towns.

Going through small towns has really made this trip so far. Sure, it's harder to find good food and the beer selection has been sub-par, but these are the places you really get to experience our country.  Just today we met an older guy, Jim, in Haugen,WI. He runs a smallest convenience store and he flagged us down as we rode by to let us know about the detour and to sign his book. Turns out that he sees lots if bikers on their way going through and he has a guest book for them to sign. He told us a great story about when he took his grandson out west on the train. They were near Havre,MT and his grandson saw a man out the window on a recumbant bike with a trailer and he asked where he thought the man was going. Jim told him the biker was going to Maine. His grandson didn't believe him and said that was crazy. And then two weeks later his grandson was sitting outside his store and sees that very same guy on his bike! His grandson believes what his grandpa tells him now!

It was outside Jim's store that I saw out first live toad and snake of the trip! (And I picked them both up) Up to now, we have only seem roadkill toads and snakes.

  

Day 37

Minneapolis,MN - Amery,WI (77 miles)

After a relaxing day and a half in Minneapolis it was time to get back on the road. Today we made it into Wisconsin!

Our ride was a good mix of farm fields, pastures and lakes. Northern Wisconsin looks a lot like Minnesota, but upon entering Wisconsin we could tell it would not be as bike friendly. The shoulder on the county roads disappeared and the drivers are slightly less careful. But that being said, Wisconsin is still pretty good.  And the people we have met are just as nice!

Tonight in Amery we had two different people offer to assist us. The first was a shower and place to stay, which we declined since we had just sat down to pizza.  We had also gotten into town late and we were worried about having to ride another 7 miles before it got dark. In hindsight, we should have gotten the pizza to go and hoped on our bikes, but everything worked out in the end.

Our second offer of assistance occurred right when we really needed it. After we ate we started looking for a place to stay. Generally we can call the police and ask then if we can stay in a park. Generally it works out. Not in Amery.  We were told the closest place to camp was 7 miles north in a county park. Crap, the sun was quickly setting and we definitely were not going to make it there before it was completely dark.  This is where Glen comes in. Glen and his wife had heard us talking about maybe camping in the park while we were still in the restaurant, and decided to come check on us. We told them that the police had told us we could camp in the county park north of town and this is when Glen offered to drive us up in his truck. Thank God! I'm not sure what we would have done.

Everyday we have been amazed at the kindness of strangers.  I think the kindness and generosity we have received has been the most incredible part of our journey. 

Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Day 36

Minneapolis (0 miles)

Today we had a truly restful day. We did our laundry, cleaned our bikes, got on the internet, listened to music, played with the cat, and took a nap.  We had planned to go and see the city, since it is one of, if not the best city for biking in the US. But the weather said it was going to thunderstorm. That was our excuse to stay inside and do nothing. A storm did end up rolling through, but it wasn't until 7pm. I'm still glad we opted to be lazy, sometimes you need a day like that. 

In the evening we did go our to play trivia with Laura and met a bunch of her friends, which was a blast. We can't wait to come back and visit!

Tomorrow we are off to Wisconsin!

Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Break Day: Minneapolis

Yep. We've made it. We're now officially at the Mississippi River. It's hard to believe that we've come so far. A month ago, Jamie and I stuck our toes in the lapping water of the Puget Sound and today we're going to do the same in the murky waters of the Mississippi. We've gone through five states, two time zones, over the continental divide, through two mountain ranges, across VAST, Vast, vast plains, and into the humidity of the eastern temperate forests. I'm sure all of you believed we'd get this far, but at times during this trip it's seemed completely overwhelming. The distances are so great and the heat and hills so oppressive that there are moments where one (me) is apt to doubt one's (my) own ability. But here I am sitting in the May Day Coffee shop off of Bloomington Avenue in beautiful downtown Minneapolis.

In my last post, I promised an update as to what it is like to drink across the country. Well, here it is in summation: Busch Light and Buds. I've never seen so many bars serving such crappy beer. I know, I know, some of you who read this (maybe all 10 of you) will come to think of me as a "beer snob." But I have to let you know, that that is not the case at all. I'm not a beer snob. I drank it. I drank it all. I think I've had more Budweiser on this trip--no, wait, in North Dakota alone--than I've had in my ENTIRE life (I know, it has only been 28 years). But trust me, it's a lot of Budweiser. Busch Light, too, seems to be an absolute favorite across the vast mid-section of this lovely country. Bars on the reservations sell Busch Light in 24oz. cans. Bars in Taylor, North Dakota sell Busch Light in bottles for $3 (!). Bars in Havre, Montana have Busch Light in boxes. Busch Light is everywhere. It's more ubiquitous than buffalo grass, than wildflowers, than broken glass along a highway shoulder. So I've indulged. When in Eastern Montana, North Dakota, and rural Minnesota, do as they do! Drink cheap beer.  Now I'm sure all of you must be wondering, "How can you drink after riding ALL day?" That is a legitimate question. The answer is quite simple: I've become a REALLY cheap date. After two beers, I'm done. Through the sweat and sun--and inevitable lack of water--I've come to see my tolerance for alcohol absolutely plummet. There have been a few nights where I was "raring" to get the drink on, but was simply unable to do so. After the first can (because almost everything is canned) my head starts to pound and my eyes slide off of my face into a droopy, drowsy stupor. It's over for me at this point. I have to get into the tent and sleep. And yet I still come back for more. There are few things more appealing on this trip than pulling into a Podunk town, walking into the nearest watering hole, and setting down for a cold Bud. I never thought I'd write that, but I just did. It's funny what exhaustion makes one appreciate....

Now the bar is not only a place where a cyclist can get cheap beer for not-so-cheap prices, for it is also a place where a wayward traveler can hope to pick up 1) a girl (if you are not married) and 2) a place to stay. And there have indeed been a few times where I have shamelessly gone into a bar fishing for a place to sleep/pitch our tent. It normally doesn't work, but sometimes it works out EXTREMELY well. This brings me into my next topic: Accommodations!

For those of you unaccustomed to living off of a bicycle for three months of your life (which I'm assuming is most), there are a few ways to actually do it. There are those touring cyclists (that is what we call ourselves) who choose to travel "ultra light." These extreme riders only carry the bare minimum: underwear, socks, shirts, and NOTHING ELSE. They don't have a tent. They don't have sleeping bags. And they rarely carry food. For these velo-travelers, the name of the game is "motel-hopping." While this type of accommodation is indeed common along roadways and highways, motels on small country roads are a rare sight. What these type of cyclists make up for in speed and lightness, they lose in money-spent and in going out of their way to find the nearest Days Inn. A second type of touring cyclists are those riding on what are called "supported tours." Supported tours are rides where groups of cyclists put all of their belongings in a van. The van will then follow the riders along the entire route, picking them up when they are tired and giving them snacks and much-needed food at meal times. For these cycling travelers, their accommodations are simple: most are planned well in advance. A supported tour costs a lot of money, but is an excellent way for a family or a retired couple to spend a summer vacation. PLUS, they always have a meal and a comfortable place to sleep EVERY night, a luxury that we "self-supported" cyclists don't always have.

Now to us, the "self-supported" riders of the continent. We carry everything on or behind our bikes. We have food, tents, sleeping bags, compasses, maps, cliff bars, and clothes. The weight of our bikes are sometimes 5 times that of a normal, unloaded road bike. Most of us tent camp our way across the country and when we are in regions where camping is unavailable, we find the nearest town park and pitch our tent next to playgrounds and swimming pool (we always call the police, of course!). We all take "bird baths" or simply don't bath at all. We all ride in the same clothes for days consecutive and we always are told we look "rugged" upon pulling into a town or city. Our nails are dirty, and to be honest, our arm pits smell terrible. But, we're self-supported. We're simple. And we can literally go ANYWHERE. For Jamie and I, finding a place to sleep has always been an adventure. In the western half of the United States, we camped in state and national parks. We had to put our food in bear boxes and were often located at the foot of a beautiful mountain or along a winding river that was ALWAYS infested with about one trillion mosquitoes. When we reached the plains states, we were often forced to camp in tiny towns with public parks. Many of these hamlets welcome cyclists and will often keep the parks in good order in anticipation of the summer's travelers. Most public parks have a bathroom, a pavilion, and a large amount of sprinklers (which create mid-night havoc). In the 36 nights we've been on the road, we've paid for camping about 15 times and have been able to camp for free many others. And when there are no state parks, national parks, or public parks around, we jump on our phone and look for a welcoming host. The website www.warmshowers.org has been a lifesaver on more than 10 occasions to be exact. Warmshowers is an online portal where cyclists are able to find the names and addresses of people who open their homes to cyclists. In most of the major cities, we have been able to find at least one or two. And in each instance, the experience has been incredibly enriching. In fact, I would have to say that the generosity of complete strangers has been the most inspiring and beautiful part of our entire journey. The hosts we have stayed with are all completely different. We've stayed with widows and widowers, living alone, in mountain valleys in Montana and Washington. We've slept in barns (clean and made cyclist-friendly) on the property of gracious and generous farmers in Minnesota and Washington. We've stayed in bicycle-only hostels, where we cooked group meals. Host families have given us sweet corn, beer, baked us a dozen cookies, and told us their life stories. We've been taken to a tiny pizza joint in the mountains surrounding Libby, Montana, and we were given free access to a county fair in Dodson, Montana (population 80). And in many instances, strangers simply came up to us and gave us money: In Glacier National Park on the tram, in North Dakota in a random gas station, and in Washington state.

A comment upon the body: My body, well, OUR bodies look ridiculous. Jamie and I have the darkest and most-absurd tan lines one can imagine. We have tan lines from our riding gloves, our glasses, the straps of our helmets, and of course, our EXTREMELY tight riding shorts. My thighs and chest are still white as snow. The border line between the skin exposed to the sun and that which is comfortably shrouded under my sweaty shirt is so stark that it looks as though I have a skin disease. Also, my beard is getting a little out of control. I never thought this could happen, but I do believe even my facial hair has a form of a tan, in that the hair surrounding my lips has morphed into a beautiful shade of blonde. I kind of admire it, but it looks rather "creepy" to Jamie. My friend Laura upon seeing me for the first time since we embarked didn't seem to like it too much either. Oh well. The aches and pains of adjusting to life on the road have slowly dissipated. Jamie and I have been riding at such a comfortable pace lately that my muscles have finally relaxed. My legs are very strong and I can tell the difference when climbing hills. My arms as well are used to balancing the weight on the front of my bike. I can now ride rather comfortably with one hand on the handlebars. I've been able to maintain weight (which is indeed a worry for cross-country cyclists) and haven't lost a single pound. My appetite is still voracious and my energy is as high as ever. Onto Maine we push!!!!

Well, my time in this coffee shop seems to be running up. In my next post I will talk about race and my reflections on that. I would also like to speak about the natural environment on the plains. But until then, happy travels!



Day 35

Dalbo,MN - Minneapolis,MN (60 miles)

Monday, August 5, 2013

Day 34

Bowlus,MN - Dalbo,MN (64 miles)
This morning we fueled up at Jordies Trail Side Cafe. As much eggs, pancakes, french toast, fresh fruit, potatoes, biscuits and gravy, bacon, sausage and orange juice as you want for $7. Needless to say, we only ate breakfast and dinner today!
After breakfast we took a little detour to go see the Mississippi River and look for some "cross rocks". Yesterday Jordie told me that people like to look for these rocks that are found in this area any only a few other places. Of course I was game! I have been picking up a few small rocks in each state we have riden through and this seemed like the perfect Minnesota rock.
We had another pleasant day of riding. There are so many birds here and we were happy to see a bluejay and two sandhill cranes. It really shows how far we have come!
One thing that has surprised me were the number of factory turkey and chicken farms. They are everywhere. And if you can't see it you can definitely smell it. Seeing the "farms" first hand really makes you want to find a farmer raising free range chickens. These birds are stuffed into big metal building with little or no windows.  The ones with windows have birds squished by them in hopes of getting some fresh air and sunlight. The smell makes your stomach turn.
Tonight we stopped in Dalbo. We had heard rumors "the bunkhouse", and wanted to check it out. I don't think we could have dreamed up how incredible this place is! Beds, a shower, food, drinks, a tv, comfy chairs and tons of cycling info! Minnesota just got even better! Our hosts, Donn and Sherry, made us feel right at home. And to top it all off, Donn showed us an alternate route into Minneapolis which will take us there tomorrow! Our original route was going to take us two days.

Saturday, August 3, 2013

Day 33

Parkers Prairie,MN - Bowlus,MN (68 miles)

Minnesota is quickly becoming our favorite state thus far. People are incrediblely nice, drivers are respectful, and it's beautiful. What more could we ask for? Maybe some better food.

Food on our trip so far has been our biggest concern. How can we get the most for our money, while still trying to keep a balanced diet. This was manageable in Washington. Western Montana it became a little more difficult. North Dakota was nearly impossible. How are we supposed to eat any fruit or veggies when our sole access to food is gas stations? Sure I'll buy that bruised banana for a dollar, what other choice do I have? Minnesota has been worlds better for food. We still end up at mostly gas stations, however most of them also serve as a grocery store as well.
Today Jeremy and I were lamenting about food and our unwillingness to eat another cheeseburger or cup-o-noodles. We dream of fresh greens. Oh, what we would do for a farmers market!

Well, Minnesota gave us a gift: Bowlus. The town has a population of 292 people so we didn't have too high of hopes. We stopped at the gas station to pee and grab a snack, and the woman working told Jeremy that there is a really good cafe in town. A cafe you say? With our interest sparked we set out to find it.

Jordie's Trail Side Cafe was just what we needed! They let cyclists camp in their yard and the food is amazing! BBQ ribs, a baked potato and salad bar for $9.99 was tonight's special. Our mouths are still watering.

Tomorrow we will cross the Mississippi!

Day 32

Pelican Rapids,MN - Parkers Prairie,MN (68 miles)

It is pretty unbelievable how far we have gone already. In just over a month we rode 1800 miles, through 4 states. That being said, we are still only a third of the way done.

PROJECTIONS (based on 60 mile days)
Minneapolis - 249mi - 4 days
Escanaba,MI - 643mi - 10 days
Cleveland,OH - 1684mi - 28 days
Erie,PA - 1788mi - 30 days
Maine - 2700mi - 45 days

These are of course only rough projections of how long it will take us. This does not factor in weather delays or rest days.

Friday, August 2, 2013

Day 31

Fargo,ND - Pelican Rapids,MN (60 miles)

Today we parted ways with Casey, Zandi, and Coleman. They are headed toward Duluth and we are off to Minneapolis.

It is a little weird traveling as just the two of us after being with people for the majority of the trip. But it is also nice to be able to go at our own pace.

We exited the plains just as abruptly as we entered them. It felt like once we crossed into Minnesota the plains ended. Weird. And there were instantly more people and small towns.

Minnesota also feels very familiar. It looks like what we are used to seeing back home: leafy trees, field full of wild flowers, and rolling hills. However, there are lakes and ponds everywhere, so if we start to forget where we are we are quickly reminded.

Pelican Rapids is a cute town. They have most definitely embraced the image of the pelican. It's everywhere. Pelican pharmacy, pelican cafe, life size decorated pelicans all around town, and a giant pelican statue by the pond. We were hoping to see some real pelicans, but sadly we did not. Maybe tomorrow!

Day 30

Gackle,ND - Fargo,ND (132 miles)

Today was our day to shine. We finally got the tail wind we had all been dreaming of! 

Our alarm clocks went off at 5:30am, we eat some breakfast and out the door we went. We were on a mission! It is unbelievable how many miles you can effortlessly go with a tail wind. By lunch we had gone 70 miles. Two days ago, with a strong head wind, it took us 8 hours to go 70 miles.

Fargo seems like a neat place. I wish we would have gotten in earlier than we did. But we did make it in time to watch the Pirates beat the Cardinals!

Tonight we stayed with a couch surfing host named Cassie. It still amazes me when people open up there house/apartment to us. Five  is a lot if people!