The Top Ten of 2013

It seems like everywhere we turn there is another top 10 list popping up. So as a reflection of our lives in 2013, I give you our Top 10 moments:

10. Karl's Country Market. Czech style bread and red current jam. Possible one of the best kept secrets in Milwaukee.

9. Biking with friends. To Doctor park with Starsky.  To Grant park with Jesse.

8. Easter morning walk at Havenwood State park.

7. Celebrated 5 year anniversary in Whitewater, WI. Dinner we Black Sheep, man that trout was tasty.

6. Opening my Etsy shop. Bike tube earrings and wallets.

5. The Delphines playing in Chicago with Deerhoof and People Get Ready.

4. Jeremy graduating with high honors from Marquette University and winning the Father Prucha award from the History department.

3. The Delphines summer tour. 13 cities in 17 days. When everyday is Friday.

2. Adopting Jackie. Best. Cat. Ever.

1. Biking 4263 miles from Washington to Maine this summer. Trip of a lifetime.

Meet Jackie!

This Friday I became a mommy, well, a cat mommy. Jeremy and I decided it was time to adopt a cat, so we went to the humane society. I was surprised how busy it was! However the Milwaukee chapter has a great reputation and a very high adoption rate. After filling out some paperwork we got to walk around and see the cats. Out of the 20 cats, there were 4 kittens and the rest were adult cats. Each and an information sheet and we narrowed it down to three adults we would like to meet. Even though all three were lable as "the sidekick" only one felt like she wanted to be our cat, Jackie. She is a 5 year, 18 pound brown tabby who loves to cuddle. Sounds like the purrrrfect match.

Settling In.

It has been five weeks since we dipped our front tires in the Atlantic Ocean. In that time, we have moved back to Milwaukee, found an apartment in Riverwest, antiquated with our friends and are on the hunt for employment. Finding a place has been a huge step in our settling in. Most people we knew in Milwaukee our first two years had probably never been to our first apartment next to Marquette, and for good reason. It was a shoe box filled with books, bikes, colored pencils and everything else. But the prices was right, and because of that apartment we were able to fund our trip across the country - it was worth the sacrifice! So our next apartment we wanted a few things: more space, to be closer to our friends, a yard, and to be able to have a cat. We found one with all these things. It's your typical Riverwest upper floor apartment. Which, for those of you who do not live in Milwaukee, means it's a quirky little place that could use a little tender loving care. The best part is, our landlord doesn't care what we do to it. So as you could imagine, within the next few weeks we will be able to put some Ault flare into it! The first improvement was painting our previously black and uninviting door blue to match the rest of the doors and trim on the house...and painting a cat on it. MEOW.

The Maine event

The last time we were in Maine, two years ago, to visit with Jon we had a great time! We helped him on the farm he was working on and we drove up the coast to Acadia National Park. This year has been even better! It has been great to see the community that Jon has around him. And also see the progress he has made as a farmer -- his produce is awesome! Other than helping him on the farm, here are some of the other things we have done since coming to Maine:

The Common Ground Fair. Run by MOFGA (Maine Organics Farmers and Gardeners Association), it is a annual event that showcases farmers and artisans from all over the state of Maine.

Roof raising. Friends of Jon's had a work party to raise part of the roof of the barn they had built. It was defiantly more party than work. In less than an hours time the peaks where up and the food came out! Garden fresh salsa and soups, and homemade pizza! YUM.

Duck-pin bowling. This is WAY more challenging than ten-pin bowling, but it was fun none the less.

Welcome to Little Bridge Farm

Since the end of our trip we have been hanging out in Dresden with Jeremy's brother Jon and their parents. Jon leases land on Bridge Farm, and is the owner/opperator of Little Bridge Farm.
Bridge Farm is a 28-acre organic farm, established in 1763. Jon leases about an acre of land for growing vegetables as well as raising chickens. It is a beautiful farm and the perfect place to spend some time and decompress from our tour. I must admit though, it has been five days since we finished and I was itching to get back on my bike two days ago. I guess riding across the country has only strengthened our cycling addiction.
It has been really great living on a farm the last five days. There are fresh veggies everywhere! I think the amount of vegetables we have consumed since finishing is double or triple the amount we had eaten in 78 days. It still shocks me how difficult it was to find fresh food on our tour!
The best part about finishing in Dresden, besides the veggies, has been being able to spend time with Jon and Jeremy's parents. It's funny, before we left, Jeremy's parents told us that they would be at Jon's place September 16th and that we better be there. Of course we said we would try our best, but to not get their hopes up. We had no idea how long it would take us. Somehow we ended up arriving at the same time!

Day 78 - We are done!

Brunswick,ME - the coast of Maine (9 miles)

Last night we rolled into Brunswick exausted after a day of crisp air, occational showers, steep inclines, shoulderless roads, and speedy drivers. It wasn't our most enjoyable ride, but when we rolled up to our motel, looked at each other and smiled. We had done it. We were on the coast!

This morning, Tuesday, Sepember 17th,  we officially finished our tour -- 9 miles down a spit to the Atlantic Ocean and rolled our bikes right into the water! 4,236 miles in 78 days!

Day 77

Lovell,ME - Brunswick,ME (69 miles)

Maine is steep. And the hills are unending. The roads are terrible. So are the drivers. But it sure is pretty. One more day!

Day 76

North Woodstock,NH - Lovell,ME (57 miles)

This morning we set out to conquer the final pass of our trip: Kancamangus. We had heard that it wasn't bad, but we were both a bit skeptical. Not bad could mean a 10% rather than a 12% grade--one rarely knows when it is coming from someone who has never biked it.

To our delight, the steepest grade on "The Kank" was 7% - totally manageable, 12 miles up, 20 miles down. And we couldn't have had better weather:  clear blue skies and sunny. So we decided to take our time and really enjoy the ride and the beauty of the White Mountains.

After the pass, we road over the state line and into Maine. Can you believe it?! We are in Maine! And in two days we will be on Jon's farm in Dresden. A month ago we were in Petoskey,MI, hanging out with Theresa and Rick. Two months ago we were in Whitefish,MT, hanging out with Chuck and Rita. And before we know it, we'll be back in Milwaukee.

Day 75

South Strafford,VT - North Woodstock,NH (58 miles)

The dangers of riding a bike cross-country: Drivers

Most everyone we meet asks us
if we are afraid of riding across the country. Don't we worry about someone trying to harm us in any way, shape, or form? Don't we feel unprotected without a gun?

To most people's surprise, we tell them we haven't felt threatened by anyone during our trip and that 98 percent of the people we have encountered have been great.

What most people don't realize, is that the most dangerous aspect of our trip is aggressive driving. Every moment that we are on the road, we need to be alert to the drivers around us. Most are fine and will give us space. But there are some that put our lives in danger, simply due to distractions and impatience.

Here are the most dangerous drivers (in no order):
- those on their cellphone.
- those who pass us on blind hills / curves.
- those who do not realize how fast we are going and try to pass us when there is an on-coming car (fully loaded we average 12 mph).
- those who do not give enough space while passing.
- those who pass too quickly.
- those who pass too quickly AND too close (getting buzzed is really freaky).
- those who honk at us.
- those who are driving RVs.

I felt the need to write about this because today we encountered a disproportionate amount of dangerous drivers. ALL simply too impatient to wait 10-15 seconds so they could see if there was a car coming from the other direction, or too impatient to wait for the car in the other lane to pass before attempting to pass us. There were WAY too many close calls. One in particular was an older man driving a blue jeep. The road was snaking up the  hills, so I was making sure to keep an eye out for cars coming from behind us so I could alert them to on-coming cars if needed. This particular man disregarded my outstretched, waving hand and decided to pass us, far too close-- at the same time we were being passed by an oncoming vehicle no less! This guy could have killed us.

Still shaken up and totally pissed off, I saw the blue jeep at a gas station. I decided to stop and tell the man how terrifying it was for us when he passed us. Calmly and respectfully I tried to convey the danger he put us in. I can only hope that he drives with higher caution and care around other cyclists.

Day 74

East Middlebury,VT - South Strafford,VT (50 miles)

Today was cold and wet. And the Middlebury Gap (the pass we took over the Green Mountains) kicked our butts. Wecome to the North East, these hills are steep!

Green Mountains!

One should assume that the ice-capped mountains of the west are more difficult to ride through than the Appalachians. However, if one peruses on-line cycle-touring blogs (yeah, I'm sure you'll jump right on it) they will find that many experienced riders will actually claim the opposite. The Appalachians they say are the true leg-slayers. It's as if the entire Appalachian mountain range as a whole relishes in playing the under appreciated and disrespected step-child. The Rockys, The Cascades,  and THE SIERRA NEVADAS, are all so romantic and replete with their cache of writers that we're often brought up thinking that the only TRUE mountains are those topped not with majestic Oaks and Chestnuts, but with ICE, ROCK, SNOW. Manly things, you know, for manly mountains. Yet here the Green Mountains wait. Patiently. Quietly. Subtly. To destroy you. Oh, 4,000 miles ridden across this vast country? You think you can take on anything? Your legs are strong enough to handle the weight of your two-wheeled steed? HA! Think again, 'cause the Green Mountains are gonna throw 12% grades in your face. They're gonna make you walk (which I did for only the SECOND time on this trip). They're gonna be windy and narrow and force you to balance ever-so-gingerly between chewed-up pavement and a non-existence shoulder that (inevitably) falls off of a sheer cliff into a ravine 1,000,000 feet below,  far down into the depths of some rushing stream. The trees look so plush and soft. But underneath the thin, rocky soil are granite/marble monsters, contorted and moulded by over 450 million years of pressure and erosion. Thankfully, both the descents and ascents are much shorter than out west, for if I had to climb thirty-two miles up a mountain pass along Appalachian grades, I would literally die of exhaustion or go insane from frustration. Instead, the hill climbs in this part of the country relent JUST at the moment the situation seems to be dire, and down we go, coasting, at thirty-five miles per hour into a quaint New England village. Supposedly New Hampshire is worse....

I have yet to determine which side of the "mountain debate" I stand on. The length of the mountain passes out West make them extremely exhausting, yet VERY rewarding. The descents are always longer and the views, I must admit, are grander--there are fewer trees and thus greater vistas! The mountains in the east are definitely graded steeply (out west, you rarely see one over 6%), but the shorter climbs seem to alleviate some of the physicality of climbing a mountain on a ninety pound bike. What I have discovered is that riding over mountains on a really heavy bike is hard no matter where you're at (duh. I know.)

It's been nearly eighty days since Jamie and me set out on this excursion. We're now into our last four days of riding. It has yet to hit me how close we are to seeing my brother and my parents in Dresden, Maine. The monotony of a trip of this length lulls me into a frame of mind where I'm unable to grasp the "big picture" of anything. I know not the significance of this trip nor its point. And I'm not bothered. I never reflect on the physical accomplishment of this feat, even when EVERY person that I meet makes a comment about my physical strength and vitality. I have no concept of my future, even if it literally is only two weeks away. Right now I am living in the immediate present, concentrating on pushing towards the final mile, where I will find rest and reprieve and much-needed time for reflection. In the mean time, Jamie and I will be busy gliding (or grinding) up the granite-peaks of New Hampshire's White Mountains, bathing in fog as it rolls over the plump ridges, catching glimpses of the august blaze of maple trees turning red. 

Day 73

East Middlebury,VT (0 miles - rest day)

Today we decided to stay another day in Middlebury. After yesterday we weren't in the mood for more heat, humidity and thunderstorms. So instead of riding we caught up on calories, hungout with Lorie and Te'a, I painted a picture, Te'a did my nails, and we went up to Burlington to meet up with my cousin Ashley and her fiance Rob. Today was awesome!

Day 72

North Hudson,NY - East Middlebury,NY (46 miles)

Today was hot, really hot. And humid. We found out later that the heat index was 117-127 degrees and was listed as "extreme danger." Great.

Other than suffering from mild dehydration and near heat stroke, the day was pretty good! We made it to Vermont and got some free apple cider.

We also got thunderstormed on, then hailed on, and then just good old fashion rained on. But our day ended in a nice warm bed! However we had to work for our beds. We found a host house to stay at, but no one was home when we got there (which) we knew before hand. We were also told there would be a dog. So exhausted and wet we pulled up, only to find a dog barking it's head off at us from inside. Oh no. Great. Here we are, three strangers walking into a house andthis dog was going to rip us to shreads. Sara was the brave one who went in first. The dog, Sasha, was just as terrified of us, however, she made sure we knew who was boss and religated us to the kitchen as she held down the fort upstairs. Thank god there was a bathroom right off the kitchen! Periodically she would sneak down the stairs to see if we had left yet, only to see us looking at her. With a few barks at us, she would head back upstairs.

Once our hosts (Mark, Lorie and Te'a) got home, everything was fine. We made friends with Sasha and went up stairs to take a shower. Needless to say, today was and adventure, but we wouldn't have had any other way.

Day 71

Raquette Lake,NY - North Hudson,NY (60 miles)

Today started with rain. Actually, it started with me not being able to sleep because I kept hearing things rustling outside our tent - terrifying. Anyway, the rain started just before 7am and stopped around 10am. At one point the pond that had formed in front of Sara's tent had seeped its way into her tent. Eww. So the three of us packed up our bikes in the rain and went on our soggie way.

Once the rain stopped, out came the humidity. It got into the low 70's, and the sun never came out from behind the haze, but man was it humid! Jeremy's t-shirt was drenched after only an hour of riding. That hasn't happened since Michigan.

Since our tents were a wet mess and the forcast showed thunder storms during the night we decided to treat ourselves to a motel. I think I could have riden 80 miles today knowing that we would not be climbing into a soggie, dirt-caked tent. It's the small things that make us happy.

Day 70

Boonville,NY - Raquette Lake,NY (52 miles)

Today we officially entered into the Adirondacks! Woowhoo! New York state has already been tremendous because of its nature, but nothing in the state can compare to the flowing rivers, mossy rocks and endless vistas of the Adirondacks. All that being said, I'm pretty sure my favorite part of the day were all the wooley-bear caterpillars! They were everywhere!

Day 69

Port Ontario,NY - Boonville,NY (55 miles)

Today we said goodbye to Lake Ontario and the Great Lake region and started our trek toward the Adirondacks.

We have gotten to the point on our trip that we have stopped telling people we plan in getting to Maine in late September. Today when asked, Jeremy told someone we would be in Maine in ten days. Ten days! That's crazy. As of today we have gone 3,835 miles and we have about 422 miles to go. I can't believe we are also done. I can't believe we will be parting from Sara ,once again, in four days. Don't worry, she won't be on her own for long, she will be meeting her dad in Burlington!

But back to the present. Today was a beautiful riding day. Not too chilly, sunny and the landscape was spectacular! We are also back in the hills, so needless to say it was challenging. And the hills are gonna keep coming!

Tonight we are staying at the Brown Barn Campground. The private campgrounds we have stayed at in New York State have been great! And the Brown Barn is at the top! For $6 a person we get to sleep inside, and have full access to flush toilets, hot showers, comfy couches, and a full kitchen! A touring cyclist can't ask for much more.

Day 68

Sodus Point,NY - Port Ontario (63 miles)

Day 67

Rochester,NY - Sodus Point, NY (52 miles)

We started our day off with a blue berry pancake breakfast, with homemade maple syrup, compliments of Bill and Shae. Then we headed back down the Erie Canal.

The first 25 miles were flat, mindless, and full of cute towns. The next 27 miles were far from flat as we made our way north through the drummal hills. But the hills were a nice change, and surprisingly the drivers gave us space. As we as road toward the lake we started seeing orchards everywhere and small road side farm stands about every 5-7 miles. Even cooler yet, we started seeing the "lake stone" houses.

Lake stone houses were built in the 1850's by Irish men who had dug the canal. There are 700 in the region and all the rocks used to make them came from Lake Ontario. The rocks were arranged in rows around the house, organizes by size and color to make for a uniform look on each side of the house. Today we saw 12 of the 700 houses.

Our day ended on Lake Ontario. Unfortunately the campground does not have beach access, but it was still cool to see a new great lake! Tomorrow we'll be sure to go see the lake and skip a few stones.

Day 66

Lockport,NY - Rochester,NY (65 miles)

I've got a bike, her name is Sal, 65 miles on the Erie Canal...

Today was just what we needed, straight, flat, mindless riding. After yesterday none of us wanted to have to think about where we were going on how to get there.

The canal trail is cool. Not only does it was great history, but there are cute towns along the way and there is tons of nature to look at (birds, turtles, foxes...).

We made it to Rochester today and spent a wonderful evening with Bill and Shae, our warmshowers host. As is our habit, we called them in the morning (I know, nothing like the last minute) to see if we could stay with them. In their generosity they not only offered us a warm bed and show, but also a killer dinner and great conversation!

Ninety Miles along the Erie Canal

When one conceives of an idea like hiking the Appalachian trail or biking across the United States, it is often expected that within the excursion there will be ample time for reflection. We all know the drill, right? Middle class kid from city suburb goes to college and gets some form of an "education"--if he or she is lucky. They read a lot of books by people like John Muir, Aldo Leopold, and Wendell Berry. Said middle class kid then begins to think critically about EVERYTHING in their often stifling, middle-class existence. No longer is highly-processed food appealing. No longer do they yearn to live in prefabricated mini-mansions in a cul-de-sac in some faceless suburb of some generic city. No longer do they want a "career" to just pay the bills, for they know that careers are going the way of the buffalo and that companies no longer care for regional loyalty. Service jobs are completely unappealing. They don't want to serve food, data process, learn excel, or sit on their ass in front of a computer. No. Not at all. John Muir has told them to explore the wilds of their homeland. To take on lightning storms under tall cedar trees, swaying violently in the wind. Wendell Berry has admonished them to actually MAKE something with their hands. Farm the land. Learn a trade. Build something. And Thoreau, well, he probably motivated them to annoy the living piss out of everyone around them with their stories of "sustainable living" and "getting back in touch with nature." To escape it all, the young person jumps on a bike (or puts on their boots) and heads out the door to the unknown, to go on an adventure of a lifetime where the future will be figured out, clarity will be found, and all political, economic, relational, and spiritual problems will be solved. At the beginning of the trip, the said traveler loads up their panniers or hiking pack with tons of unnecessary books: field guides, philosophies, journals, and  maybe even the Bible. They set a goal for themselves that they will read each night, under the stars, and write their thoughts down (rather eloquently of course) in a moleskin journal. Hell, maybe they'll even find a spouse, a new direction in life, or simply the most beautiful mountain meadow in which to think.

Unfortunately, all of this gets thrown out the window at about day ten. The drudgery of climbing hills, of dealing with mosquito bites, cleaning up blood, and finding a place to sleep, wear on the traveler's psyche. After riding 80 miles on a 90-pound bike, all one wants to do is throw it down, lay flat on one's back, and stare blankly into the tree tops. It is imperative, at this time of the day, to do NOTHING. No thinking. No moving. Only groaning and complaining. Tents are set up. Meals are prepared (usually a rather poor fair of tepid tea and tin-tasting soup). And night sets in. Sleep is immediate. No reflection has been undertaken. No major problems solved or revelations stumbled upon. To the contrary, the journal begins to look like a log of miles ridden and things eaten, rather than the magnum opus the idealistic traveler thought it would be!

A trip of this length and physical strain becomes, at times, monotonous. I often lose track of not only time, but what day it is. I have woken up not realizing where I was. I get up, ride, eat, and sleep. Instead of finding personal and spiritual clarity, I've found it hard to even think. Rather, my mind is concerned with its most primal needs: something to eat, a place to sleep, and a bush to pee on. The scenery, of course, is exquisite. Rolling hills, magnificent sunsets, birds, wildlife, and the fragrance of wild flowers attack my senses; lulling me into a deep meditative state where I'm not even thinking. I'm only reacting. And while I have yet to find an "answer" to the questions I brought with me upon this journey, I've found peace in letting the riding speak for itself. No longer am I forcing any kind of experience. I'm just letting them come my way.

We are now so far East that the reactions of individuals who ask us where we've come from, has become rather comical:

"You mean Washington, D.C.?"
"No, we mean Washington state. Along the Pacific Coast."
"ARE YOU SERIOUS?"
"Yeah. We are!"
"That's absolutely insane. I mean, I find it totally amazing and admirable, but I would NEVER be able to do that."
"Yeah, you pedal one mile at a time."
"Do you have jobs?"
"No. We left our jobs. But we have them back upon our return to Milwaukee."
"Why did you do this?"
"Just cause, really."
"No cause?"
"Nope."
"Insane. That's really insane."

Usually when they ask us where we are from, it gets all confusing:

"Where are you from?"
"Pennsylvania."
"But you started in Washington? You live there now?"
"No, we live in Milwaukee."
"What? So, you started in Milwaukee and went to Washington and now you're going to Pennsylvania?"
"No, we're going to Maine."
"I'm confused."
"Yeah, so are we."

 Well, gotta get back on the bike and ride north on the Erie Canal. More to come! 

Day 65

Buffalo,NY - Lockport,NY ( 57 miles)
Today teetered between fun and frustrating. We spent a great night in Buffalo with Cliff and Carol. Breakfast was splendid. Attempting to find and stay on the poorly marked bike path was less than enjoyable. Biking across the bridge to Grand Island was really cool. Biking on the island itself was alright. Most of the way there was a large shoulder. But again, the bike route was completely unmarked at the moment it most needed to be marked. The bridge to Niagara, NY was cool. We could see the mist from the falls! The ride to the falls was lovely. It went right along the river and we watched the current get stronger as we neared the falls.
Niagara Falls might be one of the most touristy places in the US, but I think we can all agree it is really amazing. 675,000 gallons of water go over the falls every second! That's insane! We met up with Ken and Emme, two cyclists we met at the campground in New Halem. They had been behind us for awhile, but then took the route through Ontario. So it was nice to swap stories.
We decided to bike up to the whirlpool, and found ourselves on a bike super highway. It was seriously five lanes across! The problem was after we got to the whirlpool we couldn't get off the bike highway...why would they put people on a path they can't get off of with out having to hop a guard rail and cross a highway!?
Fear not, we found a safe way to cross, but we still found ourselves on really confusing bike unfriendly roads. At one point a road we turned down turned to dirt. I didn't know dirt roads still existed in Niagara! Crazy. Once we got on the road we needed we had one more signage issue before making it to Lockport, but by this time we were all tired of having to turn around.
Lockport started out pretty low. We got in late. The best we could do for food was a Rite Aid. And the the park we were told we could camp had no running water or restrooms - correction, there were both of those things, but the water was off and the restrooms were locked. The worst part was that the police, who told us to camp there, couldn't unlock them for us.
Rather defeated, we started to set up camp in the picnic shelter since it looked like rain. Sara took all our water bottles and went down the road to the pump. Five minutes later Sara comes sprinting down the road. Jeremy gets ready to fight someone and we ask what is wrong. "I found us a place to stay!" We always joke that Sara has all the luck, but tonight proved it. Not everyone came go to look for water and come back with a shower and a lawn to camp in!
So our day ended on a great note. Everyday is an adventure, but I think we are all hoping that tomorrow is a tad bit less eventful.

Day 64

Portland,NY - Buffalo,NY (70 miles)

Today we opened up our second-to- last-map. Can you believe it?! We are almost to Maine! Two months ago we were in Newhalem,WA, meeting Sara and preparing for our first mountain pass. A month ago we were in Bowlus,MN, enjoying a relaxing afternoon at Jordie's Trail Side Cafe. And a month from now we will be back in Milwaukee.

The ride to Buffalo was nice for the most part. Route 5 is great. Nice wide shoulder, low traffic, and scenic. We should have abandoned our map and road all the way on route 5 / lakeshore road, but we didn't know at the time that it went all the way. The Adventure Cycle maps are great, and I would highly recommend them, however there are times I wish they would give more options, or at least show larger sections of the area, so if you wanted to you could choose to go another way. Then again most everyone has a smart phone now and can look up alternate routes. Anyway, Hamburg to Buffalo was stressful. It still amazes me how many drivers choose to pass us and nearly collide with on-coming traffic rather than slow down and wait 10 seconds before passing us.  But we made it in one piece, so it was a good day!

Buffalo was not at all impressive when we road in. Abandoned buildings and empty parking lots. Great. Plus, the bike routes are so poorly marked it is a wonder we ever found them. But then we road to where we would be sleeping, the west side, and we were suddenly surrounded by beautiful old houses, stone churches, vibrant streets with shops and resturants, colorful murals and bike lanes. This is what the whole city should look like!

Tomorrow we are off to Niagara Falls!

Day 63

Fairview,PA - Portland,NY (50 miles)

Today we dusted off our bikes, wiggled the lazy out of our legs and headed to New York. We left my grandma's house this morning with my dad and brother. I was ecstatic that they wanted to ride! They got to see how an average day biking is, AND how stupidly happy we get when we enter a new state. Jeremy has a head cold, so we didn't put in too hard of a day, but it was still a great ride.

East of Erie we found ourselves in wine country. I grew up in the area so I knew about the vineyards, but I didn't know about the wonderful aroma that filled the air. It was like biking through a glass of grape juice. 

Midway through our ride we ran into rain and wind. I had forgotten how windy it is near the lake! When the storm was approching we decided to take shelter for a bit at a park near the beach. It felt like a sand storm. Sand in our eyes. Sand in our teeth. Sand blasting our limbs. It was really cool watching the lightening out over the lake. It didn't end up raining, so we rode on....five minutes down the road we got poured on. Out came the tarp.

After the rain passed, the sun came out and it turned into a lovely afternoon. We found a place to camp at a state park on the beach,  met up with my mom and went out to dinner. Today was great!

Day 62

Erie area (0 miles - rest day- 35 miles by car)

Today is our final rest day with family. So what better than a Labor Day picnic?! It rained off and on throughout the day, but we got to see both sides of my (Jamie) family today and prepared for our departure (laundry, groceries, re-packing). The weather is calling for rain tomorrow as well, so cross your fingers and toes that we won't get too wet. It will be sad to leave western PA and all our family and friends, however we still have 820 miles to go! So there is no stopping now - Maine or bust!

Five Days "Rest"

It's been nearly a week since Sara, Jamie, and me rode a blistering 96 miles into Erie. We began that epic journey in the middle of a powerful thunderstorm that dumped sheets of rain on downtown Cleveland. Leaving at 11:00pm is not normally our modus operandi, but the bad weather forced us onto the road at a later time. Anyways, we decided to make the ride "epic" by agreeing to attempt a push into Fairview, PA, by the time night fell--a total of 96 miles. The riding was brilliant. We had flat terrain, a favorable wind, and the anticipation of seeing family and friends pushing us along our path. Finding relaxation in Pennsylvania, though, proved to be much more difficult than expected. Between the dinners, breakfasts, and drinks spent with friends and families, all three of us found it impossible to find the time to get some shut eye.  I'm not complaining, of course. Quite frankly, I enjoyed indulging in my lazy side, eating copious amounts of ice cream, donuts, and tacos; and staying up too late in a rather tipsy state. I think I can speak for all of us when I say that after two months of operating on a calorie-deficient diet, we all relished the food splurge.

But alas, the break time is over. We are now on the cusp of embarking on the last leg of our journey across this great country. Up next, New York. Then, New England. The steep grades of the Appalachian mountains beckon us with their rustic beauty. One would imagine that all of us would be exhausted after two months of travel. Many might assume that after spending five days relaxing in plush beds and taking regular showers, our bodies (mainly our minds) would be lulled into a state of "softness." HA! Rather, it's the contrary. The closer we get to the rocky shore of Maine, the more motivated we have become. Amidst all the pain and discomfort in the tendons and ligaments of the muscles; of humid nights spent in smelly tents; of too many frozen-dried meals ruined by too much boiling water; of mosquito hoards attacking ankles and necks; of calloused crotch sores (yeah, it's true); of numb hands and twitching fingers; of spoiled vegetables in panniers; of unrelenting hill climbs; of aggressive drivers; of bloody calves gouged by chain rings; of grime under fingernails and arms; of rank socks and underwear; of frustration, exhaustion, elation, and contentment, we are in high spirits. We are aware that our journey, one that is now stretching into its third month, is one that is often dreamed of but rarely undertaken. The fact that it will all soon be over is difficult to fathom. So we choose to respect it. Ride it to the end. And break forth to a beautiful future that will surely be molded by the people we have met and the situations we have come across along the way.

This past week has seen our first bout of truly bad weather--and it makes sense, considering we're now perched along the shore line of Lake Erie. For those of you unaccustomed to gray skies, driving rains, and howling snow, move on up to Erie, Pennsylvania. You'll see a lot of all three. Riding in the rain has its challenges. Ponchos don't work, for they get tangled in your legs while pedaling. They also act as gigantic parachutes, holding you back and making you look like a buffoon. And the bike itself sprays up water on your face and legs. So, I normally choose to just tough it out by riding, yep, you guessed it, shirtless. I hope I won't need to resort to this method tomorrow morning!!

More posts to come.

Day 61

Erie,PA (0 miles - rest day - 57 miles by car)

Today was the first day on our trip where I did not wake up in the middle of the night hungry! I'm not gonna lie, it was a great feeling. During our rest days our goal has been to catch up on calories, and I think I have achived this goal. We'll see how I feel tomorrow morning. I can't speak for Jeremy or Sara.

Around lunch time we drove down to Presque Isle State Park. There is a 50's style ice cream and sandwich place called Sara's just as you enter the park. They have killer peanutbutter milkshakes, so we has to stop. It wasn't the best day to go to the beach, but Presque Isle was still full of people, and we still walked long the shore skipping rocks, looked for beach glass and cool drift wood, and dripped our feet in Lake Erie.

Day 60

Pittsburgh,PA / Erie,PA (0 miles - rest day - 161 miles by car)

Today we took Sara to Pittsburgh. We showed her the bridges, ate some pierogies, picked up a YINZ sticker for her bike and walked along the river to The Point.

After dinner with my parents, we drove downtown to Erie to visit with our friends Annie and Jude. They took us to their garden, fed us a second dinner, and welcomed us into their home for an evening of catching up, future planning and laughter. And of course, we listened to the Pirate game. Let's go Bucs!

Day 59

Ambridge,PA (0 miles - rest day - 122 miles by car)
Today we drove down to see Jeremy's family and hang out with our Beaver County friends. Naturally we took Sara down with us and gave her a good taste of Western PA.

Day 58

McKean,PA (0 miles - rest day)

Today we we woke up to rain, but we were nice and dry in my parent's house, so no worries! No wet tent. No mosquitos. No repacking our bags. Still woke up hungry.

I'm pretty sure our only real goal of the day was to watch a movie, but our relaxation time got in the way. So we sat around, ate, played with my brother's dog, drove downtown to visit were Jeremy used to work, ate some more, and hungout with my family. No movie, but it was still a great day! And our legs and wrists thanked us for the break.

Day 57

Cleveland Heights,OH - Fairview,PA (96 miles)

This morning we woke up refreshed and ready to go. During breakfast we decided that we were going to try to make it to my grandma's house in Fairview rather than camping half way. We were just about to head out when it started to pour. Like for real pour. Thunder, lightening, the works. So we weren't going anywhere soon.

After about an hour the brunt of the storm had passed, so it was time to go. Clad in blue ponchos, we started out trek to Fairview. We were leaving later than we had anticipated, but we were hopeful we would still make it. Today was going to be epic.

We rode in the rain for a solid 45 minutes before it let up, which can be a challenge in a city, especially in an unformilular one. Is there a giant pothole under the puddle on the road? Will the drivers give us extra space? Will our bikes hydoplane when we try to stop? What road are we looking for? Was this really a good idea. These questions, and more, inevitably cross our minds. But the rain stopped and our came the humidity.

At 5:00pm we pulled into Astibula for some dinner. We had to make a decision, were we going to camp here, or push on to Fairview? Our GPS said we were 34 miles away, so three hours. This would be cutting it close since it gets dark around 8:30pm. The consenses was to ride on. The weather called for thunderstorms throughout the night and on Wednesday, and none of us wanted to pack up our things in the rain the next morning. So I called my mom, grandma and brother to let them know we were on our way. There was no turning back - Fairview or bust.

Day 56

Avery,OH - Cleveland Heights,OH (63 miles)
So...I have been slacking on the blog posts.... I have every intention of going back later and adding some stories, but honestly, I have no idea when that will be.  But I hope you are enjoying the pictures!
Today we road through Cleveland. There haven't been too many big cities on this trip, so Cleveland was a welcomed change from small towns, corn and soybeans.
This morning we had no idea where we would be staying. A few days ago we started contacting warmshowers hosts since there are no places to camp. One guy, Bryan, did get back to us, but he was out of town and could no host, and offered to, "shake the tree" and found us a place to stay. We all assumed that he knew the people he see us up with, but it turns out he went on warmshowers.org and started calling people on our behaf! That's incredible, he doesn't know us at all, yet he was willing to call strangers for us so that we would have a place to stay.

Day 55

Bowling Green,OH - Avery,OH (69 miles)

Day 54

near Broughton,OH - Bowling Green,OH (66 miles)

Day 53

Huntertown,IN - near Broughton,OH (58 miles)

This morning Dan and Marsha did their very best to try to get us to stay a little longer in Huntertown: breakfast at the local dinner, a field trip to the new town park and woodworker's club, and an interview with the local newspaper.

I know I was tempted to stay another night, but all I could think about was how close we were getting to Erie,PA and my family. Plus, my grandma will be having surgery in the next week and I want to see her beforehand. So we pedalled on. Out of Indiana and into Ohio!

Day 52

Scott,IN - Huntertown,IN (65 miles)
Today was an adventure. We road through Amish country, hid out in a library while a thunderstorm rolled through and at the end of the day, found ourselves in front of a campground that had been closed for years.
We arrived in Huntertown at 6:45pm, and after stopping for a snack we went to look for the Ponytown USA campground. What we found was an overgrown field and a for sale sign. Crap. We quickly looked for other campgrounds in the area. The closest was 9 miles south in Ft. Wayne. It was now 7:10pm and it would be dark before we go there. Crap. With no other options we started to ride back into town. The plan was to look for people in their front yards, explain our situation and ask if we could put up our tents. The first attempt was a straight no. The second went a little better.
The second person we asked  was named Herb. He too did not want us camping in his front yard, but he gave us the phone number of his friend Dan who is in charge of the new town park, so maybe we could stay there.  With my fingers crossed I called Dan, explained how I got his number and our situation. It was now 7:40pm. Dan explained that the park was only in the first stages and there were no bathroom facilities. My heart sank a bit. Then he told me to hang on. The phone went silent, and a few moments later I heard him say to someone "we so do it, it'll be an adventure." Back on the phone he told me what we could camp in his yard and gave me directions. I thanked him whole heartedly and headed down the road.
At this point our evening completely turned around. Dan and his wife Marshal are amazing! They invited us into their house, ordered pizza, cut up fresh garden veggies, AND turns out they have a place in Shelbyville,TN - 10 minutes from Jeremy's parent's house! Needless to say we had a wonderful evening. And I'll say it once again, the people we meet is really what has made this trip great!

Rain Break: Albion, Indiana

We've finally entered into Indiana. Travelling from the Upper Peninsula down to Kalamazoo was quite a ride--one that was MUCH longer than anticipated. It's a funny thing, really, for when we don't ride East, I get impatient. The 536 miles we rode South challenged my focus and drive. Knowing that we still had 1,500 miles to go until Maine kept playing over and over in my head, reminding me that my pedaling over the stubborn Michigan hills was all in vain. Or, if not in vain, at least NOT in the right direction. Thankfully, we're heading east...again.

A trip across the country endears one to many things. There are the people, of course, who offer up their stories and hospitality. There is the scenery: Rocky mountain streams that cascade down granite embankments; high plains grasses that sway in the wind, looking like gentle ocean waves. There is the wildlife: The birds, the mountain goats, big horn sheep, and sand hill cranes. All of these elements coalesce to create an environment that is exhilarating while tranquil, challenging while comforting. Yet, out of all elements, one stands alone: the bike. After 3,o00 miles, I'm still in awe of its rugged simplicity and utility. While on the trail, many bystanders ask if I've had any problems with my ride. I often tell them, much to their consternation, that I have had hardly any and that in fact, I've only had ONE flat tire. I've never had to change a battery, add oil, fill up on gas, or cool an engine. Nothing. I simply get up, load the tent on the back, repack some panniers, check my chain, and hit the road. Every 300 miles or so, I clean and lube the drive train so it doesn't gunk-up or creak, and then I'm good to ride for another 300 more. The bicycle itself has to be one of the most perfect ergonomic contraptions, as it literally becomes a part of my body when I clip my shoes into the pedals. When I sway to the left or the right, the bike comes along with me. When I lunge up a hill, with each muscle fibre at full-tilt, I can hear the strain in the grind of my cassette. The pedals transfer the energy of my legs into a highly-efficient rotating motion that can, with minimal pressure on joints, enable the body to travel at speeds of up to 25, even 35 miles per hour. It can't be beat. There are few feelings more addicting than making a sharp turn while travelling at 18 miles per hour. When it happens, I lean the bike over, descend into the bend of the curve, and feel weightless as the momentum of the rapidly rotating wheels whip me forward into the straights. It feels as if I'm in flight.

Day 51

near Irving,MI - Scott,IN (79 miles)

Today our goal was to get out of Michigan. This was only Sara's second day in the state, however Jeremy and I have been here for 10 days (around 450 miles). Michigan has been great. However, we have not made much progress going east, as about 250 miles were going south.

Just before the Indiana border there is a town called Centreville. We stopped there for some electrolites and a snack before going the last 20 miles to the campground. It was here we met an older guy who introduced himself as "Dirty Bob." He came up to us, asked about our ride and then invited us to his house to sign the inside of his bus. The whole time he is snorting and stumbling a bit. After he leaves, we look at one another, smile and shrug, then get on our bikes to go see this bus.

When we get to his house we see him come over to us waving with a big smile on his face, "I didn't think you were going to come! Come on, come sign my bus!" He leads us on to the white school bus next to his house. The inside had been turned into something like an RV. There were two beds, two tables with seats, a storage locker, and a bathroom. The rest was mostly open and every inch of ceiling was covered with writing.  He showed us the sharpie markers and we went to town. While we left our markers Bob introduced himself to us a few more times-- it is sad, his short term memory is more or less gone. He told us all about how him and his friend go to the raceway with the bus each year.  There was a younger guy, Dustin, whose grandfather lives close by, so he helps Bob around the house, so he took our picture on the bus with Bob. We said our goodbyes and Bob thanked us again for coming over and being his friend.

We didn't really know what to expect with the bus, but we all agreed it was the best part of our day. You never know who you'll meet biking across the country!

Day 50

Grand Rapids,MI - south of Irving,MI (38 miles)

We did another short day today. Maybe our legs will feel like they rested even though we still got some miles in.

It is nice to be back with Sara. Don't get me wrong, it was fun with just the two of us, but I know we both enjoy the conversations we have with Sara. Plus she is taller than both of us so she can pick wild apples off of trees!

Tomorrow the plan is to get to Indiana, barring our legs feel up to an 80 mile ride.

Day 49

Morley,MI - Grand Rapids,MI (45 miles)
Today we did a short day into Grand Rapids. We were able to take the trail all the way into the city, and in the last 15 miles I was amazed at how many people were out using it, considering it was Monday (I counted 84 people on bikes and there where just as many people walking).
Grand Rapids is a neat place. The Grand River runs right through the city, there are parks all along it. Plus, once we were down town we were able to take care of everything we wanted to do within a few blocks (laundry, post office, bike shop, Thai food, library).
On Thursday evening we had met Theresa and Rick in Petoskey and camped with them. They live in Grand Rapids and had offered to house us if we road through. It is hard to tell sometimes if people are serious when they say you can stay with them, but we took a chance and called them, and they said of course! AND they were willing to let Sara stay too. Yes, that's right, Sara caught up with us! So we spent another wonderful evening with them.
Tomorrow we will get back on the ACA route and continue on our way.

Day 48

Cadillac,MI - Morley,MI (60 miles)

Today we got a break from hills and cars. The trail was great for the most part, except for the last 10 miles where the gravel had been turned into mashed potatoes by horse hooves. Mind you horses are not allowed on the trail. Boo. Oh yeah, and Jeremy fell.

Day 47

Macelona,MI - Cadillac,MI (70 miles)

Today was hard. This morning we had to decide if we were going to go back to following the ACA (adventure cycling association) or go down the White Pine trail (rails to trails). The trail would take us on flat terrain for 90 miles, straight south. The only thing is that the trail is only half paved. So we called a few bike shops in the area to ask their opinion on if it would be suitable for loaded touring bikes. The general consensus was yes, so off we went to Cadillac.

Our route was slightly more direct than than yesterday, but the hills kicked our butts. We rolled into Cadillac and made a b-line to the nearest pizza place. It was there that we were told about the campground, but we were warned that it was quickly filling up.

After scarfing down our pizza we kicked it into high gear in hopes of reaching the campground before sunset and before it filled up. Just before we reached it we were flagged down by a guy on the side of the road.
"Where you guys heading? I did a cross country tour in '93."
"We are going to Maine, we started in Washington."
"Wow! I did the opposite, Maine to Washington. Are you heading to the campground tonight?"
"Yeah, hopefully we can find a spot, we were told it is filling up fast."
"Yeah, it's pretty full. Hey, if you can't get a spot you can put your tent on my front lawn, I'm just down the road."
"Sounds great, thank you so much!"
"Actually, why don't you just camp in my yard?" Sounded good to us, so we followed Dave to his house.

Little did we know, but Cadillac was about to get awesome! Dave invited us into his home, fed us, let us shower and sleep in real beds, AND showed us pictures and told us all about his trip across the country! It was amazing. The pictures and stories were priceless, especially the ones from Glacier National Park. In the middle of July Going-to-the-sun road was void of cars and a parking lot at Logan pass only had a handful of cars in it. What a huge difference from what we experienced at Glacier! However most of his stories were much like our own: The generous people who welcomed him and his friends into their homes, the unrelenting mosquitos, the beautiful landscapes, and the massive amounts of food consumed. And this made me smile, because it was something the three of us shared, even though our trips were 20 years apart.

Day 46

Petoskey,MI - Mancelona,MI (64 miles)

In a car, the drive from Petoskey to Mancelona is 40 miles and takes a little less than an hour. By bike it is 64 miles and takes five and a half hours. Welcome to Michigan! There doesn't seem to be a direct route to any of the places we are going.

It was a bit surreal being back in Mancelona at Au Sable. It has been 6 years since I was an  environmental ed. intern there, but upon arriving it felt like it was just yesterday! 

I had called Paul, one of the guys I worked with when I was an intern in 2007, and he told me there was going to be an alumni reunion this weekend. So once we arrived we were met by a few familar faces and got to meet a bunch of great people.
Au Sable has to parts of it: the college classes and the elementary school classes (ELC). I was only involved with the ELC, so it was really cool to talk to people who had done the field classes and research. Au Sable is definitely a place that a lot of people love.